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Routes in Upper Devil's Playground

Barbed Wire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Nowhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackpod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day of Wrath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Formicae S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Galactus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gargoyle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb V8- 7B
Lois V7 7A+
Meat Milkshake V6 7A
New Shoes T V4 6B
Panhandle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sarah Palin's Drill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things to do in Vedauwoo When You're a Moose T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tunnel Vision T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Brink, Sept. 3, 2012
Page Views: 166 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jim Brink on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.

Location

This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill" a few feet to the SW.

Protection

#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.

Photos

Jim Brink
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Jim Brink   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Photo by Ben Boykin. Sep 4, 2012
Jim Brink
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Jim Brink   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
I spoke with Bob Scarpelli yesterday (9/7/14), and he says that he never did Crack to Nowhere, so I think my reported ascent is a first. Sep 8, 2014

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