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Routes in Upper Devil's Playground

Barbed Wire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Nowhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crackpod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day of Wrath T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Formicae S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Galactus T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gargoyle, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gut Bomb V8- 7B
Lois V7 7A+
Meat Milkshake V6 7A
New Shoes T V4 6B
Panhandle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sarah Palin's Drill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things to do in Vedauwoo When You're a Moose T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tunnel Vision T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Brink, Sept. 3, 2012
Page Views: 154 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jim Brink on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill" a few feet to the SW.

Protection [Suggest Change]

#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.


Jim Brink  
Photo by Ben Boykin. Sep 4, 2012
Jim Brink  
I spoke with Bob Scarpelli yesterday (9/7/14), and he says that he never did Crack to Nowhere, so I think my reported ascent is a first. Sep 8, 2014

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