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Routes in The Testes

Left Nut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Nut, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Ann Robertson, Mar, 1993
Page Views: 1,893 total · 14/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 27, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is listed in Eric's Desert Rock as II 5.9, A1+. It is actually I 5.9. (Although I'm sure you could aid off the drilled angle and call it A1+ if you wish.). When we did the climb, there was a drilled hole for a piton (which was missing)and that was the aid move. We inserted a piton in the hole (and left it ), free climbing past it (At 5.9), and went to the summit. It's a summit, an easy tick, and fun enough. There is a route on the Right Teste, for you can see a rap anchor directly across while you are climbing the Left one.

Location

2.8 miles past Courthouse Wash...it's on the left, just behind and right of the weenie shaped Phallus formation.

Protection

Double set of cams should do.

Photos

jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.9
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.9
There are two bolts and a baby angle protecting the last moves to the left summit. The right summit has a piton and a bolt with no hanger on the top of it. Jul 13, 2007
ha ha! someone actually repeated this? people are crazy..... Sep 29, 2010
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.9+ PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.9+ PG13
didn't see any bolts. did see empty holes. three pins (and pro) protect the moves to the top. good anchors on top. fun, quick and fairly easy for the grade. beware of rope drag. i had a ton and i used long runners. good climb Sep 24, 2012
Michael Colby
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Michael Colby   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Climbed on 5/19/2014. Easily protect-able until the chimney. The three pitons are there after exiting the chimney. Two bolt anchor off the top with rap rings. The left bolt on the rap station is loose and should be replaced. Stayed in the shade until early afternoon. Tons of rope drag and windy, made communication difficult. But amazing views from the top! May 21, 2014
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Fun, mellow roadside tower tick; well worth doing if you've done the more popular mini-towers throughout the park. As it didn't seem clearly mentioned here, the route is on face opposite the road. Also, a single 70m rope easily reached the ground and it looked like a 60m might work with stretch, but not positive on that. Nov 3, 2015
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.9
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.9
Fun climb for those who enjoy the little piles in Arches. Double set of cams to #3, could have used a few nuts. Single 70m rope for rappel. Feb 11, 2016

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