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Routes in Knights Wall

Gneiss Boys S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knights of the Wrong Tissue S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Palms Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steiger, Ringle, Brown
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 11, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

pitch 1, follows a seam past two bolts and decent protection to a belay (and escape) in hole. (climbers can exit out to gully between Goosehead and this fin). pitch 2 is the better of the two pitches although some creative nuts and tcu placements are needed. Runout but with clean fall on very steep 5.6/7 moves, but the cruxes have good bolts (3/8" circa 1992). For confident leaders.

Location

downhill (south) facing side of fin opposite of Goosehead. Approach down gully and around very end of fin. Escape from 1st pitch involves belly crawl. Summit can be down climbed or rappeled.

Protection

stoppers, brass nuts helpful, friends to 3"

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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b PG13
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b PG13
Did the first pitch only. Started further left, beneath a right-leaning crack that converges with the main line. It looked better than standing in a tree to start, but probably wasn't (cornflake rock, bushes, meh). The climbing in the main system is really funky, but mostly cool. I ended up doing some weird stuff up high that was sort of hard. However, (beta spoiler?) my partner found a decent hold hidden behind a little shrub which made the sequence much easier.
There is pretty good gear throughout, but it can be finicky. I definitely wouldn't throw a new trad leader on this route. May 8, 2015