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Routes in (05) Health Wall

Inner Sanctum S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum cum Masochist S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
May Cause Health Problems T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noisy Cricket S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Not Suitable for Pregnant Women S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phalanx T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Piled High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Reggae's Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rob's an A S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
STD T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smegma Deluxe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tres Amigos S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upchuck S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Why Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 443 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Possibly the best trad line at Mentmore, Phalanx is the obvious, eye-catching splitter at the far right (east) end of the Health Wall. While face holds are available, knowing how to finger jam will really help you out on this one. Be careful though, some of us with mid-sized fingers need to resort to ringlocks... The crack takes good pro, and the fall is generally clean, so this is a good climb to push your leading grade on. Also easy to toprope, and excellent for practicing technique. If only it was longer...

Location

The clean, splitter finger crack right between the obvious "Why Crack" and the equally obvious big overhang, down near the right end of the Health Wall. Rap or lower off, or walk off to the right.

Protection

Trad gear to a 2-bolt anchor. The crack is small, so bring medium nuts and small cams to about 1 inch.

Photos

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Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
One of the best lines at Mentmore. Super solid gear, fun movement, easier than it looks. Ten stars. I took gear from green alien to green c4. Sep 18, 2017