Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 256 total · 2/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

One of the better 11s here, this route is fairly sustained, a rarity at Mentmore. Crank the bouldery start (crux) and mantle onto a large ledge. There is a bolt on the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and clipping the 2nd bolt while standing on the ledge. Safer and easier. From the ledge, climb the smooth, slightly overhanging face above you on decent crimpers. You can stay left, right or center of the boltline: all are roughly equivalent difficulty and quality, and all are pumpy. I think that the clipping stances are best from the right of the bolts, however. Watch out near the top: some of the crimps feel pretty delicate. Finally, remember that using the dihedral at all is OFF ROUTE. However, if the start is too hard, it's easy to climb up to the ledge using the dihedral, and enjoy the rest of the route from there.

Location

The route on the left(east)-facing wall of the dihedral at the far left end of the Health Wall.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is set well back from the edge, so bring long slings if you want to TR this one.

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