Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (05) Health Wall

Inner Sanctum S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum cum Masochist S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
May Cause Health Problems T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noisy Cricket S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Not Suitable for Pregnant Women S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phalanx T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Piled High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Reggae's Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rob's an A S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
STD T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smegma Deluxe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tres Amigos S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upchuck S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Why Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 236 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the better 11s here, this route is fairly sustained, a rarity at Mentmore. Crank the bouldery start (crux) and mantle onto a large ledge. There is a bolt on the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and clipping the 2nd bolt while standing on the ledge. Safer and easier. From the ledge, climb the smooth, slightly overhanging face above you on decent crimpers. You can stay left, right or center of the boltline: all are roughly equivalent difficulty and quality, and all are pumpy. I think that the clipping stances are best from the right of the bolts, however. Watch out near the top: some of the crimps feel pretty delicate. Finally, remember that using the dihedral at all is OFF ROUTE. However, if the start is too hard, it's easy to climb up to the ledge using the dihedral, and enjoy the rest of the route from there.

Location

The route on the left(east)-facing wall of the dihedral at the far left end of the Health Wall.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is set well back from the edge, so bring long slings if you want to TR this one.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments