Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 376 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, but not one of the best, even for the grade. Climb up the varnished face about 10 feet, then pull onto a large ledge below a prominent spray-painted "peace sign." There is a bolt at the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and just clipping the 2nd from a secure stance (avoids rope drag). From the ledge, climb the vertical face above on large incut edges. The crux is at the 3rd bolt, and can be potentially challenging to some. The crux can be avoided by staying well right of the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Climbed this way, the route probably goes at 5.9.
The anchor, while not far from the lip, can be tough to equalize well; bring some extra biners, slings, and ingenuity.

Location

The first boltline right of "Not Suitable." Look for the peace sign graffito about 10 feet up.
Lower off or walk off; ropes are hard to pull if you rap off.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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morrison  
 
killer climb, lot of fun, crux is right in the middle and is the reason for the 10a rating, super fun lead Nov 13, 2008
alwaystheleo
Gallup
  5.10a PG13
alwaystheleo   Gallup
  5.10a PG13
Another one of my favorites. Probably a bit soft for the grade, but the crux can be a killer for some. A bouldery start leads to a nice resting ledge at the second bolt. Use a small pocket to assist you to a nice jug from which to clip the third bolt. After that it's pretty easy going to the anchor. Oct 30, 2015