Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Marvin Seale
Page Views: 429 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

An excellent and enjoyable climb, and also the only climb on the Original side to feature sustained pocket-pulling. Crank up onto a ledge, then swing through the obvious pockets to some decent crimps (crux). The crux may be height dependant, being easier for taller people. The crux is very-well protected, but the easier ground above is quite runout. It is probably 15 feet from the last bolt to the lip. The terrain is easy (5.8ish), but any leaders should still be comfortable on long runouts.

Location

Look for the boltline immediately left of the obvious, jumbly "Why Crack." This is the only obvious line of pockets at Mentmore, so if you're looking at pockets, you're in the right place.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Runout to the anchor! The anchor is also WELL back from the lip. Bring long slings, esp. if planning on TRing.

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Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
  5.10d
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
  5.10d
I know I've basically gone through all of Mentmore on MP and tried to increase the grades on every climb, but only 10c for this? The pocket moves are hard-ish, but the move above the pockets to get to the last bolt way hard for 10c. Perhaps some of those slopey crimpers before the jug have eroded. I thought it was more like 11a, but since 10d is harder than 11a(!), I'll rate it 10d. Definitely harder for shorter climbers. May 11, 2018