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Routes in Grand View Spire

Relics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Southwest Defile Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 430 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Baker, Michael Kennedy, and Bob Wade, 1991
Page Views: 2,313 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jesse Bernier on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1 - Climb a splitter 6" crack that gradually narrows to fingers. The crack seems traverse left and is protected by two bomber drilled angles. Continue up the thin corner to an anchor with two drilled angles. 5.10, 130 feet.

P2 - Continue up the thin, right-facing dihedral and over the 4' roof. Continue in the thin crack to a fixed pin and move right. Continue straight up to an anchor with two drilled angles. 140 feet. of sustained C2.

P3 - Follow the crack off the belay to softer and sandier rock, and build an anchor before the route moves left. 5.9, 80 feet.

P4 - Move up and left until you arrive at a large ledge just below the summit (rock quality really poor). Continue to the summit via a thin C1 crack or 5.10 offwidth (10"-12").

Some people may want to break P4 into two pitches.

Descent - Double rope rappel down the northeast face off two drilled angles to a notch. Downclimb slabs east to the base.

Location

Relics is located on the south face of Grand View Spire either accessed from the Monument Trail or a 165' rappel from the Grand View Overlook.

Protection

Standard desert rack up to #4 Camalot unless doing offwidth on last pitch. Several micro cams down to #00 Wild Country and several Loweballs.
I don't remember placing any ballnuts, just a lot of microcams. Really cool second pitch! Jan 11, 2017
Are ballnuts necessary? Jan 11, 2017
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Yes, it is on the caprock. It is still removed a ways from the edge because of the in cut below. They are double ring rap hangers. The 30 meters of old line that was wrapped around the pins and the large block that the pins are in has been removed as well. May 29, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
So, Jesse, just curious - is the anchor no longer on the block on top? Is it in the caprock instead?

Thanks for doing the work! May 28, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
The rap station at the top has been updated and replaced. Courtesy of the ASCA. A tip: when you rappel try to pass the knot passed the edge at first chance you can unweighted the rope. Otherwise it can be a brutal pull.

The original summit register is still there, and someone has kindly put a new notepad, pencils, and ziplock bags. Thanks! May 27, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Cam hooks, medium to small Met. Brass nuts, small cams, one number four and two of everything else. Didn't need the HB offsets or Alien offsets. If you rap into the saddle between the tower and wall, do not take the chimney, instead climb down a small slab and bushwhack around the tower. One double rope rap from the top (bolts should be moved to the lip of tower) gets you to the saddle. Mar 29, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Did this route last week and I thought it was a great route. If it wasn't for the sandy chossiness in the middle of the climb this thing would be super classic. I really enjoyed the 1st and 2nd pitches and thought the 2nd pitch was one of the best aid pitches I had done in the Monument. I used a bunch of small offset Aliens with some HB offsets and red Ball Nuts. Good, thoughtful climbing but never desperate or scary. Be ready for some sandy, loose stuff on the 3rd and 4th pitches. Mar 24, 2008