Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Pauline Hsieh, Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody (2001)
Page Views: 5,068 total · 34/month
Shared By: andyf on Feb 18, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


93 Opinions

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Description

Gun Rack has a brilliant double roof sequence (especially for the grade), with mostly pedestrian climbing before and after. There's an optional second pitch of easy slabbing (5.6 or .7, crux at top). By skipping (or back cleaning) some of the first pitch bolts, it's reasonable to climb the entire route as one long pitch (two raps with a single rope).

Location

Currently, last route to the left after reaching crag. Look for the double roof.

Protection

Draws. 6 bolts plus anchor (first pitch); 13 draws should be enough for combining pitches.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I combined pitches 1 and 2 without skipping or backcleaning; the rope drag was stiff for the last little bit, but doable. However, it was just about impossible to hear my second under the roof from the top of pitch 2. Jul 8, 2007
Rafe
  5.9
Rafe  
  5.9
Super fun. May 5, 2009
DuncanKL  
 
Great climb, but not good on hot days. Jul 28, 2010
Denno
Glacier, WA
  5.9
Denno   Glacier, WA
  5.9
One of my favorite sport climbs in Leavenworth! Pumpy roof crux, but an awesome feeling sending it, and fun to lap. Jul 19, 2013
Lan Dogan
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Lan Dogan   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Pitch 1 is excellent. Fun and juggy. Crux is moving past the double roof. Trusting excellent jugs let you clip the bolt just above to give you protection for moving up and through.

I don't recommend pitch 2. I couldn't figure out how to move around the roof and up to the anchors with out feeling super exposed. Afterwards a friend who'd climbed it before said there was a good under cling to the right but I did not find while on the route. I retreated and a friend rappelling the next route over recovered my bail draw. May 18, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
worth climbing twice in row Aug 22, 2015