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Routes in The Solarium

Everything Under The Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mere Mortals T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Message from the Stars T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paris Hilton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunblessed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sunshine Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,249 total · 51/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Sunblessed is a very high quality three pitch climb, popular for its memorable second pitch hand crack. Begin at a bolted dike in the center of the wall.

P1: Punch it up the dike at run out 5.9 to the first of a series of bolts. Continue up and then traverse right along the dike at 5.10 to a ramp and the base of a beautiful splitter.

P2: Ascend the steep thin-hands crack for 120 feet to a low-angle ramp and belay. 5.10b.

P3: Head up and around to the right on easy terrain, then continue up the corner vie stemming and face holds initially and then better jams. 5.10b(+).

There are several variations/link-ups that alter the upper pitches. Rap the route (2 60m ropes or one 70m).

Protection

Standard rack.
Doug D
Park City, UT
 
Doug D   Park City, UT
 
The book pitches this out in four. As stated do it in three. There is bolts before the last crux crack on the right hand side of the wall. Belay from here or at least have your leader clip the bolt, as blowing it before they get to the bolt next to the crack would set you up for a bad day. Sep 20, 2007
Luke Hanley
Boulder, CO
Luke Hanley   Boulder, CO
I remember the first two bolts off the deck being smashed, so no gear for 25 feet or so. It's probably 5.9, slick , but with positive edges. A great route, but i could have skipped the last pitch (p3) and been happy to go back to camp. Jan 14, 2008
I really enjoyed this climb. The first pitch definitely has you go about 25 feet until the first bolt, but I didn't see any smashed bolts.

The second pitch was great except that it's hard to see how long it is so I kept wondering what gear I needed to save for later. In the end I would say that two purple, three green, and two red camalots plus some large nuts (#12-14 BD) would be ideal. I only had two greens and ended up doing some leapfrogging, although if I knew that it stayed reasonably moderate after the first ten feet I probably would have just carried on without leapfrogging.

I wanted to do the last pitch even though it seems to have a reputation as less pleasant. While it's not a three-star splitter like pitch two, I found it really rewarding. McLane's guidebook described it as "hand and flary fist jamming." I was surprised by just how much it flares at the bottom. I got a 3.5 camalot in the initial flare (where it's worst) and actually felt pretty comfortable stemming until the one and only bolt. Once I had the bolt clipped, the jams gradually got better and so did the pro, but it was burly for the grade all the way to the top. No amount of gym climbing will teach you how to do this pitch.

A 70m rope was perfect for getting down in the three rappels. Apr 23, 2008
Way awesome climb. Glad to see the picture on the front page. Every pitch is good, but the 1st one could be a little scary with the pro or lack of that I remember from the mif 90's. Jul 24, 2008
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I really liked this climb, which has a terrific amount of variety.

The p1 dike moves weren't hard but because of the way the dike angles left almost every move felt off-balanced.

P2 was a textbook thin crack.

On p3, we took the left finish, which I thought was the best pitch: a couple of interesting face moves, some delicate stemming, and an interesting, hard-to-read exit move, with bolts and a little thin gear wherever you needed it. You could easily do both finishes, which I would have liked to have tried if my partner wasn't pressed for time. Aug 25, 2008
anthony509 Excelsior
las vegas nv
anthony509 Excelsior   las vegas nv
Easy to miss the approach trail(s). No smashed bolts when I seconded this. Great views. Sep 15, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10b PG13
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10b PG13
Pretty fun route. Every pitch has a very distinct character.

P1 - Seriously runout to the first bolt. Pretty scary so keep your head together for this one as as a fall even halfway to the bolt would be nasty. (estimate it's 7 - 9 meters up). The movements on the dyke are cool and balancy

P2 - Thin hand and finger crack. Super super super fun.

P3 - The slab was easy and I didn't bother placing any gear but there are several very loose flakes at the top of the slab before the bolts. Be careful stepping up there. The corner starts off very flaring. I was pretty comfortable with a #4 camalot at the bottom of the flare then some stemming to the bolt. Decent jams come eventually with good gear.

Great climb but, it's disappointing that the start is so unnecessarily runout. I would think the approach alone would prevent this climb from becoming polished anyway.

Notes on the approach. When you leave the main trail you should see the climb Big Fat Joint (with it's bolts) right away. If you don't go back and keep hiking up the trail. We got confused with an earlier exit and wasted 20 minutes trying to figure out where the solarium is. Aug 19, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Fun day out, lots of varied, high-quality climbing in a peaceful, wonderful atmosphere. We got on it late October after sustained, serious rain but after 2 days of uninterrupted sun it was quite dry - just some mild moisture at inside the p2 cracks at the beginning.

p1 now has a ~12-foot chain attached to the first bolt, reducing the danger of getting to the first bolt for those that are interested. Kind of ridiculous, but not as ridiculous as the original runout.

p2 is a splitter 0.75s crack, quite sustained in the size so make sure to save your green Camalots whenever you can. You could probably protect this pitch adequately with exclusively green Camalots. Sling the tree after the slab, or go left to the rap rings.

p3 short ramble to the bolts below the flare.

p4 I was expecting the flare to be much scarier than it was. As mentioned earlier, a decent #4 Camalot can be placed from the ledge before you start udging up the flare towards the bolt. Was surprised to read people stemmed this section, I grunted up straight-in. The protection is fine on this pitch (I felt safer than the flaring hand crack on p3 of Wire Tap) and the climbing is unique, technical and engaging. I was surprised by the slight run-out at the top, there is a bouldery mantle with your gear a meter beneath your feet - safe fall but I thought I was out of the mentally challenging section when I'd made it through the flare.

Gear: Recommend doubles from 0.3 - #2 Camalots. Single red C3, #3 C4 and #4 C4. Triples (or more, bring whatever you feel like hiking in) in green/red Camalots for p2. Bring something to sling a 6" tree at the top of p2. Oct 29, 2017

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