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Routes in Sigma Wall

Nakoma (formerly The Niche) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sigma S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tool Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wild Things T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 11,503 total, 87/month
Shared By: dvsanbt on Jan 24, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A pumpy route. Have the belayer be watchful for the 3rd clip. Clean line with good moves. There are a couple of spots with a bit of crumbly rock.
Not so much of a distinct crux, linking together is the key, IMO.

Location

Middle of the unquarried wall, about 40 ft from the corner. Look for a flake/crack going up and slightly to the right with bolts to the left of it. That's your line.

Protection

Bolts, quite a few of them (about 10 or so) on solid rock. Anchors at top - will have to pass the rope, though.
Sean Foster  
 
Response to Pexaggend:
That's my picture and I did the cleaning. Not sure what you think I was doing based on your comment that ended with "I hope that the flow stays the same, and that this type of activity does not become the norm."

Assuming you don't know the recent history, so here you go: couple weeks ago a photo surfaced of Sigma with two big chalk "X" marks on it and reports of loose rock. I was up on Friday and climbed it, then lowered to inspect the rock. The one flake that helped form the V half way up pulled off with a single tug and landed right where my belayer had been before starting to do the work. Had we not cleaned it, there could have been a serious accident coming. The other block was a little smaller than a toaster and came off with about 5 minutes of wiggling. No tools. Straight up wiggling.

Not sure by your comment what you think I was doing. But, in the end, recent loose rock has been removed. The flow is identical (unless you were using the extremely loose flake previously) and I witnessed two more ascents immediately after I cleaned it. No new or better holds were left behind. Loose rock is no joke and must be taken care of by experienced climbers and stewards in the community. It was a public service, not a modification. Go forth and climb knowing people are out there keeping you safe.

Also, the cairns were fun to build out of the debris while hanging out watching others climb. Art, it does a body good. May 4, 2015
Someone just posted this picture on social media after "cleaning" all these rocks off Sigma. Just my two cents, but seeing this much work done to a longstanding/iconic route made me a little queasy. I hope that the flow stays the same, and that this type of activity does not become the norm.

May 3, 2015
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
checked out the gear on sigma last weekend. it goes for sure, and it's pretty safe, maybe just PG rating.

obviously, you'll need lots of small stuff. triples of silver and purple TCU, as well as doubles of blue. you'll also need 3-5 brass nuts, the largest made by BD (5kn). a #1 BD camalot, oddly enough, is comes in handy, as well (it goes in the horizontal crack/pod/jug located mid-route).

all the cruxes protect very well. the only area that does not take the best gear is the dihedral in the end, which only takes brassies.

go lead it! Oct 3, 2011
Shawn P. Tracy
  5.12b/c
Shawn P. Tracy  
  5.12b/c
Mike Dahlberg got the TR-FA of Nexus, Sigma, Tool Boy and The Niche in the mid 1980's. He waited to bolt Sigma until well after the local non-bolting advocate was gone. He worked 8 days on getting the bolts in the best rock, best locations, and best type of bolt so it's quality was preserved. He got the FA-Lead the next week, mid 2000's. Sigma was not led with trad gear in the past. It would require hammering in vertical knifeblades, on-lead, at a grade not yet achieved in that style in the midwest prior to the bolts. No such scaring is evident in the sandstone. If Dahlberg didn't trad it in that fashion in the height of his trad days (see several of his heinous trad routes from that period) that were at that grade or harder, there's a reason for it. If anyone better than his mid-80's and 90's climbing form led it in such a fashion in that time or earlier, it would surely have surfaced and would have been more likely rehearsed, then soloed (which is conceivable for some of Dahlberg's peers which was their style at that time). May 4, 2011
ferrells  
 
I am not aware of whether he did or did not lead them pre-cool city days, but he would have had to lead them on gear. Bolts were not added to these cliffs until the city was okay with it. Sep 2, 2010
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.12a/b
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.12a/b
"I am not 100 percent positive but I believe that Mike lead many of these thin lines pre "city is cool with climbing" days. "

By this do you mean he lead them on gear? Oct 4, 2009
I am not 100 percent positive but I believe that Mike lead many of these thin lines pre "city is cool with climbing" days. Oct 3, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
no idea. but it can go. go for it! Apr 11, 2009
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.12a/b
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.12a/b
Anyone know if this has been led on gear? Dec 17, 2008
One of the best in the .12s in the midwest, on par with Wiskey a go go or any others! Great work Mike! Jul 22, 2008
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.12a/b
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.12a/b
Got on this route and almost got the onsight of it today. Super fun moves. Bolted extremely well, I felt like every bolt was right where I wanted it, Great Job Mike! May 21, 2008
Shawn P. Tracy
  5.12b/c
Shawn P. Tracy  
  5.12b/c
One of the best routes around. Simply beautiful and sustained, challenging moves over immaculate sandstone. Mike Dahlberg spent an outrageous amount of time preparing to bolt this so it would flow safely and smoothly without interupting the climbing. Kudos for the FA in the 1980's and in such a terrific job in protecting it! Nov 26, 2007
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.12a
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.12a
Such a beautiful line that follows this S-curving crack. Pretty much a perfect route with the crux in the beginning, a rest in the middle and a sweet redpoint crux right at the end. There is also two no-hands kneebars and is very well protected. A hidden gem! Jan 24, 2007