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Routes in Sigma Wall

Nakoma (formerly The Niche) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sigma S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tool Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wild Things T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 3,289 total · 26/month
Shared By: Shawn P. Tracy on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Up flakes on Wild Things (don't trust flake for pro) to a stance on horizontal ledge leading to right. Walk on air across traverse to stance below roof and in corner. Up to roof then out right to hidden, hanging off hands crack to anchors right of final outside corner.

Location [Suggest Change]

Sigma Wall

Protection [Suggest Change]

Expert trad lead until supplimental bolts will protect nearly unprotectable start. Soon to be bolted by Dahlberg.
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11 R
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11 R
optional start: climb five feet up the flake and hand traverse out the obvious horizontal crack. after ten feet or so you'll come to a huge jug/flake (takes pro). from here, make a big move up and right to the crack system.

no need to add a bolt. the move from the pedestal to the crack can be protected with a purple or a silver tcu. once on the crack, you can also immediately plug in a yellow, or orange tcu.

fun climb. i wish the main crack system went on a hundred feet longer!! :) Apr 11, 2009
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.11a PG13
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.11a PG13
Great route!

For gear:
#2 C4 for initial traverse
A nut and/or #1 C3 to protect move into crack,
A nut and/or #2 C3 for 1st move in crack
C4 0.75 to 3 for the crack

I found the traverse to the crack to be not too hard (but I'm 6'2"), The runout from the crack to the anchors was a bit heady for me, but I slung the top of the flake where it meets the wall. Must do route, especially if you're waiting in line for Sigma. Oct 30, 2011
Gavin Purcell
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11b/c
Gavin Purcell   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11b/c
This is a unique route with a long traverse and a quick transition from delicate edging to jamming. The last bit of the traverse might be challenging for shorter climbers.

I think this route can be lead safely with the right placements. For the bottom half: #3, .4, two .3's, and a .2 with an optional .1 as a backup. The .2 and optional .1 are slightly tricky to place for a couple of reasons. For the top half (the main vertical crack) .5 to #3 and a sling towards the top.

For top-roping, the .4 mid-traverse works well as a directional. For belaying, an anchor is useful considering the horizontal distance from the start of the climb to the top anchors, let alone the dropoff to the right. Sep 24, 2017

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