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Routes in Sigma Wall

Nakoma (formerly The Niche) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Nexus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sigma S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tool Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Wild Things T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 3,991 total, 33/month
Shared By: Tyler on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This route was finally bolted for sport in Sept 2011 (with permission from Mike Dahlberg).
HYPER CLASSIC.
Route immediately left of Sigma.
Stick clip first bolt or climb good holds to first.
Has a little bit of everything; liebacking, stemming, pinching, crimping, jamming, pocket-filling and a redpoint crux guarding the anchors. A very special line.
Hard to believe that two routes of this caliber exist right beside each other in Minnesota. Believe it.
This, along with all five routes in this area, were first climbed by Dahlberg circa 1988.
First Lead Ascent by Sean Ferrell.

Location

Sigma wall on northern-most wall without any ledges.

Protection

BOLTED. 8 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

ferrells  
 
The pressure! Okay. For the sport areas I know around here, my 10 favorites

Whiskey A Go Go
Nexus
Tsunami
Sigma
Hurtful Pleasures
Mississippi Burning (avoiding the new giant ledge rest, sadly)/Blankman
Sudden Daydreams
Genesis Effect
Fox Confessor
Dry Lightning

Runners up:
Advanced Birding
Natural Selection/Surf Selection
Brown Reason to Live
Hawaiian Bill
Pork Tornado
Paradigm Shift
Midsummer Daydream
Jump to Something Good
That 5.10ish thing to the left of Whiskey
Insectiphobe - not so good, maybe, but pretty hard

Oh, and as far as the grade of Nexus, sure, that sounds good. May 13, 2014
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12d
first off, thanks for bolting this rig, tyler hoffart. you did a quality job. you used the best hardware, and the bolt placements are spot-on. well done.

nexus truly is a very fun, aesthetic line. there is only one way up, and that is rare for minnesota routes. nexus packs in a wide variety of movement: stemming, jamming, gastons, highsteps, lockoffs, and a sweet deadpoint. what's more, all cruxes are preceded by very good rests, one of which is a no hands.

that being said, there are downsides to the line. the flared corner climbing does not flow well, and it is preceded by the start, which is a dripping "hanging garden". the rock above the corner is crumbly. those holds are already breaking and crumbling. for these reasons, i think sigma -- not nexus -- remains the best line at sandstone.

as for the grade, i think 12d is more appropriate than 13a. the rests are too good. the individual moves no harder than v5. and, overall, the line feels just a couple notches harder than sigma, which would make nexus' grade near 12d.

i apologize if you think this comment runs long. i wanted to give a thorough explanation of my opinion, as i think this gives the line and the equipper the respect they deserve. Sep 14, 2013
Josh Cox
Andover, MN
Josh Cox   Andover, MN
@ferrells - I'll bite, what are your top ten sport routes in the Midwest? Jun 19, 2013
ferrells  
 
I saw that I was mentioned, but not Tyler on this page, and felt I should say something. I didn't bolt this route, just got permission to try it from Tyler Hoffart, who put in the time, money, and care to equip it.
He did a fantastic job. He took a dusty top-rope, communicated respectfully with Mr. Dahlberg, and brought this thing to life. The hardware is bomber, and the bolts are well-placed.
I'd say it's now the best bolted route in Minnesota. And 2nd on my top ten best sport routes in the mid-west. Dec 1, 2012
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
 
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
 
This route is a MN gem. It is absolutely fantastic. Nov 3, 2012
This route is bolted now, and the hornet's nests are gone. I wasn't able to climb it however my partner did. He was estimating low 5.13. Sep 1, 2012
Kyle Kahl
Arvada, CO
Kyle Kahl   Arvada, CO
Found 2 hornets nests with angry ones on them last weekend. On my way down, it seemed some sticks "landed" on the nests and they broke off. Hopefully the route will stay clean now, super fun!!! Beyond my sending level tho thus far Jun 11, 2012
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
BEWARE: There are two hornets nest on the top of this. One right by the top anchors and one 2/3rds of the way to the top near a birch tree. Sep 23, 2009