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Routes in Raven Rocks: East Face

Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Red Book S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Stiffy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Punk Rock Changed Our Life S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shaky Start S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stop The Madness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
We Can Be Heroes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 1,751 total, 13/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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33 Opinions

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Description

This is the route with the huge hueco on the east face of Raven Rocks.
Climb overhanging terrain on huecos until you reach the mother of all huecos. Head up and slightly right until you reach the point where the route changes from vertical to less than vertical (crux) where the anchors are located.

Location

Look for the huge 3 ft hueco, around the corner from the large roof.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Clif Clap  
 
Beautiful route. Sustained throughout with thoughtful movements low up to tricky, slick feet above heading to the last two clips. Pocket pinches, underclings, liebacks, and a crimp near the end for good measure. This route has variety. Sep 29, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Excellent finger lock at the top portion will help you make a clip from an otherwise somewhat insecure position. Was excited to be able to use a fingerlock on this sport route! Mar 12, 2012
duh
5.11b
duh  
5.11b
The bolt has been replaced 4-27-12

jack Jul 14, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
Over two years and nobody has replaced the fourth bolt! I'd say about an inch of the bolt is exposed, maybe more. It would be a great community service if someone could take care of that. I would but I'm a six hour drive from NJC. If nobody posts on here that it is fixed by the next time I know I'm heading out there, then I'll bring my drill and take care of it. May 31, 2011
Matt West
Vail, CO
 
Matt West   Vail, CO
 
The rock around the fourth bolt appears to have eroded even more since Eli's post.

Very fun climbing though. Apr 18, 2011
Eli Stein
Soulthern Caliswag
Eli Stein   Soulthern Caliswag
WARNING! Rock below the fourth bolt has chipped off exposing about half a centimeter of the shaft of the bolt. This is not a cruxy area of the climb, but just so you know. Mar 30, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Fun and exciting with sequential moves coming out of the large hueco. Just when you think you've got it beat, you get to the last clip. Tricky moves to anchor.....pretty happy I didn't attempt the onsite.

~Susan Apr 9, 2007