Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 2,061 total · 14/month
Shared By: duh on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The leftmost route on the east face. Follow the shallow right-facing corner past 4 bolts to the obvious beautiful left-facing red corner for 4 more bolts to the anchor.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchor.

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The start of Little Red Book
The start of Little Red Book
 1
Some interesting clipping technique may be required.
Some interesting clipping technique may be requ…
 0
The upper "book" part of Little Red Book.
The upper "book" part of Little Red Book.
 0

9 Comments

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Starting moves are on slick rock. Route is fun enough although you find yourself climbing the right hand wall of the dihedral and clipping bolts behind you. Kinda weird in that sense. Shady and convenient. Apr 9, 2007
duh
  5.10a
duh  
  5.10a
Bolts are on the left wall so the rope runs smoothly and the falls are safe. At least that was the idea.... I did notice when I went back to do it last year, that you must keep an eye out for that 2nd bolt in the upper dihedral and position yourself to clip it. I guess it not a problem though, it has seen several hundred repeats. Apr 10, 2007
jt512

jt512    
"Shady and convenient."

If you think this route is "shady," you should see the new stuff Jack is putting up.

Jay Apr 11, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Pretty good route and slick at the start. Real nice in the upper book area. Apr 11, 2007
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Agree with Susan's comment. Mar 13, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Juggy climbing to start then a single tricky move to get established in the upper corner system which is much easier than it looks from the ground. Long, varied and quite enjoyable for the grade. Oct 13, 2011
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9-
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9-
Found a couple of 5.9 moves, poor rock quality in the middle, and was disappointed by the dihedral as it didn't climb anywhere near as cool as it looked. Nov 26, 2012
Clif Clap
 
Clif Clap  
 
The second bolt along the dihedral does stand out in terms of getting a good clipping position. Stemming works but the left wall is slick. Another option is stacking the feet in the crack along the flake. Feels strange but if you get it it's secure. May 20, 2013
Christian .
West Hills, CA
  5.10a
Christian .   West Hills, CA
  5.10a
Airy climb. Good 10a that makes ya work for it. Mar 7, 2017