Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Raven Rocks South

Candy O S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Custom Tailored S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Descending Opinion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 66 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suddenly Susan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taylor Made S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 68 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 2,182 total, 16/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


61 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Middle route on south side of crag

Location

Just left of Route 66 (5.9).

Route # 885 in Southern CA sport climbing guide

Protection

8 bolts, shut anchors, rap down
brucy
5.11d
brucy  
5.11d
This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.

Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at an area like New Jack City- with its extremely friable stone- is a given for change. Because of this, comments one reads about "easy...well thought out" clips (say on the last bolt, for a glaring example) can bring surprises down the road. Jan 26, 2015
Clif Clap  
 
Outstanding protection. Every clipping stance felt super secure. While the second crux is reachy and a little desperate, it comes right after a bolt so it's easy mentally to go for it. May 22, 2013
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
 
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
 
I agree with the two distinct crux sections with some easier climbing between. A fun route for the grade, the best route on this wall in my opinion (although the 5.9 is a close second) Nov 18, 2009
duh
 
duh  
 
The route has been fixed. Thanks for the info Russ. Apr 16, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Say Duh.... yeah.... they are pretty loose. I think if I got my fingers behind them and tried to layback or pulled out, they would go. I "thumb spragged" them as a test and they moved about a 1/4" or more. Apr 12, 2007
duh
 
duh  
 
Russ are those flakes that loose? They have always been a little loose since the fa., I was hoping they would last. It's been 11 years since the fa, maybe with the amount of traffic that route sees, it's time to do something about it before we loose those flakes? Anyone have any epoxy? Apr 12, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
There are like 3 loose layback holds right at the first crux. They flex and have chalk "X's" on them. Will they come off if you use them???? depends on how you use them, but they are loose. Too bad New Jack is an area of critical environmental concern and on the U.S. Register of Historical Places, 'cause I would just pump a few tubes of epoxy behind them there loose flakes. Apr 11, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
This was a fun one. No pump factor, it's more like two cool boulder problems separated by 20' of 5-easy. Jan 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Extremely fun route and should be considered an area classic. Two distinct cruxes one lower/mid way with second crux clipping the last bolt before the anchors. (hint...go high) Very fun, well protected and a must do.

~Susan Jan 28, 2007