Type: Sport, 68 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 2,508 total · 17/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Description

Middle route on south side of crag

Location

Just left of Route 66 (5.9).

Route # 885 in Southern CA sport climbing guide

Protection

8 bolts, shut anchors, rap down
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11b
Extremely fun route and should be considered an area classic. Two distinct cruxes one lower/mid way with second crux clipping the last bolt before the anchors. (hint...go high) Very fun, well protected and a must do.

~Susan Jan 28, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
This was a fun one. No pump factor, it's more like two cool boulder problems separated by 20' of 5-easy. Jan 28, 2007
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
 
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
 
I agree with the two distinct crux sections with some easier climbing between. A fun route for the grade, the best route on this wall in my opinion (although the 5.9 is a close second) Nov 18, 2009
Clif Clap  
 
Outstanding protection. Every clipping stance felt super secure. While the second crux is reachy and a little desperate, it comes right after a bolt so it's easy mentally to go for it. May 22, 2013
brucy
5.11d
brucy  
5.11d
This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.

Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at an area like New Jack City- with its extremely friable stone- is a given for change. Because of this, comments one reads about "easy...well thought out" clips (say on the last bolt, for a glaring example) can bring surprises down the road. Jan 26, 2015
Bames Jond  
 
crux up top is absolutely heinous in the late afternoon after the holds have been baking for several hours in the sun. Definitely get on this while it's cold. Mar 18, 2019