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Routes in Raven Rocks South

Candy O S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Custom Tailored S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Descending Opinion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 66 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suddenly Susan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taylor Made S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Howie Stern, Jack Marshall
Page Views: 792 total, 6/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Bouldery start leads to easier moves and a blind reach to a good hold. Stays left of the bolt line after the second bolt.

Location

Third route from the right on the south face

Protection

Bolts Anchor

Photos

Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
It's pretty easy near the bottom 1/2 - 2/3 of the route, and the crux is near the end. Unfortunately there's a big X on the critical hold to finish the route-- I didn't touch it, but my friend just felt it and said it was definitely loose.

It was beyond our grade to finish it on lead without using it, so we had to traverse around and skip a bolt to the top.

We tried TRing it from the anchors without using that hold, but it'd be harder than 11b without using the weak hold. Dec 8, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
This route is good fun, even though it gets no stars in the Southern California Sport Climbing Guide book. Totally worth doing. Feels like there is probably one .11a move on it (move at top to hidden hold); the rest is mid/low .10 range. Not as good as Candy O, but definitely worth doing for an .11 leader. Nov 12, 2012
Howie Stern
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.11a
Howie Stern   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.11a
This was Jack's line but he let me bolt it, clean it, and do the FA. We were originally not using the holds to the left and it was much, much more difficult up top(with a really hard clip). We were saying 11+ at first. Jack's friend Patty then went up and said it was 5.12. Then we went up again and said it was 11c. This continued with her getting more flustered as she thought it was harder and we kept down rating it till it reached 11a. Since she was(is) a lawyer, we thought descending opinion was a perfect name...Using the holds on the left now makes it feel piss easy... Dec 23, 2011