Avg: 3.8 from 165 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Greg Collum, Trevor Massiah|
|Page Views:||19,000 total · 109/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Holliday on Dec 9, 2006|
|Admins:||Tao Techakanon, Brian Boyd|
The pitches are thus:
p1: 6a (10a) Climb out right from the cave and then straight up about 20m. Do an easy hand traverse left to get to the belay anchor.
p2: 6b (10c) Climb straight up from the belay anchor. Many people seem to use some big stems towards the top of the pitch but there are other ways to do the crux. Once you're on easy terrain you'll see two anchors. Head to the one up and to the left.
p3: 6b+ (10d) The money pitch. From the anchor climb straight up past about five clips and then start a rising traverse to the right. The wall eventually steepens and the holds start to disappear and progress would seem to be thwarted. All is not lost: look behind you and use the obvious feature. You'll know what I mean when you're up there. A couple more clips and a small traverse past the last bolt gets you to an anchor in a small cave. It's well protected from the sun but is extremely slippery.
p4: 6b (10c) Make some hard moves right off the belay and head straight up for about 20m to the next anchor.
p5: 6a (10a) We didn't do this pitch and it's apparently not frequently done. The rock quality is suspect and because it traverses the descent is made more difficult by doing this pitch.
The descent: we descended from the top of the fourth pitch and did two single-rope rappels to get to the anchor atop the second pitch and then one double-rope rappel to the ground. The last rappel will put you on the patio of the Freedom Bar. The route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope but it's a pain to do it that way.