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Routes in Warm Out Wall

Ace Cashier S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Belly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herniated Bone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Home Skillet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Meringueutan Arch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Clark and Greenberg, 2005
Page Views: 131 total · 1/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Is it just me, or are ORG slab routes always hard for the grade?

A very sustained pitch with good variety that is slightly marred by a little bit of decomposing rock near the top.

Steep moves getting to the 1st bolt (10c) followed by a couple of hard moves pulling onto the slab (10c), easing off a bit then cruxing getting to the 4th bolt. Some easier climbing on the edge of slab gets you to an interesting undercling/roof move which does not seem correctly bolted as a fall here could swing you into the slab. A couple of steep, fun moves involving a crack, decomposing rock for the left foot and bomber stone on the right finish off the climbing.

Location

The leftmost route on the right sector of WOW, starting behind the northernmost trestle support.

Protection

8 bolts. Might want a stick clip for the first. Also might want to put a short draw on the 6th and make sure the belayer is paying attention at this point.

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Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
The .11a route to the right felt much easier. Both cruxes are on the slab and Herniated Bone's crux is significantly harder. Dec 6, 2006
Zachary
  5.11a/b PG13
Zachary  
  5.11a/b PG13
This route is one of the scariest climbs I have ever done.

The chossy feet up at the top of it do not inspire confidence when trying to avoid decking on the slab! Jul 10, 2009
Zachary
  5.11a/b PG13
Zachary  
  5.11a/b PG13
Also I would agree that the rating seems fairly sandbagged. Perhaps some of the holds on the slab have broken off since it was originally rated? Jul 10, 2009

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