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Routes in Pavilion Block Bouldering

Type: Boulder
FA: Knower, 1999
Page Views: 2,918 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Walk down the steps to the east of the Redbird Statue and below the main pavilion area. The trail will take you to a huge detached block. Some good bouldering can be found on the downhill side of the block.

A blank roof crosses the right side of the wall. "Calm" climbs up a very overhanging prow that juts out from the right side of the wall, just right of the roof. Heel hooks and slaps lead to easier moves. The climb was topped-out on the first ascent, but this is not necessary as the top is tall, easy, and uninspiring.

"Calm" looks and climbs a lot like "The Buddha" at the Gunks.

Protection

pads

Photos

Still fun to be had, but lots has pulled from the little ceiling at the start of this route, so be prepared to have to suss thing differently than the photo. We spent and hour or so there and the bottom is pretty loose. Sep 21, 2015
this route is sweet, it can be bumped up to at least a V6 if you challenge yourself by sit starting under the ceiling on the right side, and by eliminating the huge slab to hook onto, it leaves you with two small but decent pockets to work with. making it much more difficult...(: Oct 13, 2012
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V5
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V5
I've always climbed the blue line. Both lines can utilize the foot jam. And it's definitely not a cheap move and doesn't help everyone. It's one of the more unique moves I've pulled while climbing. Jun 16, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
 
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
 
Blue Line is definitely the best of the two variations. Worked on it yesterday with John and figured out all the moves, just have to come back when I am fresh to send. Stiff V4 that way. Apr 13, 2011
Witt
  V4+
Witt  
  V4+
the blue line is definitely the harder of the two lines. v4 if the red is v3. there is a high right hand pinch that allows a big reach around the bulge. the blue line is a more sustained problem and lots of fun, just remember an extra pad.
As of 11/21/09 a key hold has been broken off of the blue line's route. Updated rating is V4+. Aug 17, 2008
Seth Carlson
Wausau, Wisconsin
V3
Seth Carlson   Wausau, Wisconsin
V3
A little dyno skips the crimps. A very fun V3 May 23, 2008
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V4
Upon further review this is definitely V4... Dec 26, 2006
Leveille
Appleton, WI
  V3-4
Leveille   Appleton, WI
  V3-4
Thx for the picture Pete,

I also agree that the huge foot move is somewhat cheap and makes that part of the route quite a bit easier. I don't know about the blue line but I have no doubt that Adam would have sent that. Dec 11, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Does anyone know the name/grade of the blue line? Dec 11, 2006
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
Mike- I'm I'll put the picture up right now. I'll put it up under Harappan Civilization though.
Jay- When I do this route I'm to short to be able to use the foot- jam. But, I would agree that with it, it makes it easier. On the other note, the blue line has been done before. Some people who I know have done it (and seen it) are Adam Glass and Mike Taylor. I have just started working this variation and it is much harder then the right. Dec 11, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I have been informed that this problem goes easier with a left leg-stuff/calf-hook. I found this problem incredibly desperate, but I did not use the leg stuff. Perhaps the beta on this has "evolved." At any rate, Calm climbs the red line in the photo. To my knowledge, the blue line has not been climbed. Dec 11, 2006
Leveille
Appleton, WI
  V3-4
Leveille   Appleton, WI
  V3-4
It was definatly pretty cold yesterday. And I'd have to agree that the right hand side is more V3. Also, did you put up that photo of my bloody hand, or could you shoot me an e-mail with it. It'd be pretty fun to show it to some people at school. Dec 10, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  V4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  V4
I think the right hand variation is more like V3. Dec 9, 2006