PRINT: Climb Calm like a Bomb, Niagara Escarpment & Kettle Moraine

Calm like a Bomb

V4, Boulder,

Avg: 3.2 from 30 votes
FA: Knower, 1999
Wisconsin > Niagara Escarpm… > High Cliff SP > 1. N Side > 3. Pavilion Block Bou…

Access Issue: Parts of High Cliff are included in the DNR's State Natural Area program so please respect that and do not climb with ropes in areas that are signed as State Natural Areas. BOULDERING IS ALLOWED EVERYWHERE. Details

See dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/sta… and click on the maps tab. The PDF map will give you the overview, but is not very detailed. Use the DNR's mapping app and zoom in for more detail.

Description

Walk down the steps to the east of the Redbird Statue and below the main pavilion area. The trail will take you to a huge detached block. Some good bouldering can be found on the downhill side of the block.

A blank roof crosses the right side of the wall. "Calm" climbs up a very overhanging prow that juts out from the right side of the wall, just right of the roof. Heel hooks and slaps lead to easier moves. The climb was topped-out on the first ascent, but this is not necessary as the top is tall, easy, and uninspiring.

"Calm" looks and climbs a lot like "The Buddha" at the Gunks.

Protection

3-4 Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Calm Like a Bomb

i've always climbed this spot following the green line here. i skip the slap to make it harder in the ceilings edge there are two pockets, and when it goes vertical there is the nob and the little…

Stew, calm like a bomb.

Calm Like a Bomb

Mike climbing 'Calm Like a Bomb' in freezing weather.

This is Calm Like a Bomb. There are a couple variations to this route. You can either stay committed to the face, or you can cut left after the big flake and then move up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO

I think the right hand variation is more like V3. Dec 9, 2006

Leveille
Appleton, WI

V3-4

It was definatly pretty cold yesterday. And I'd have to agree that the right hand side is more V3. Also, did you put up that photo of my bloody hand, or could you shoot me an e-mail with it. It'd be pretty fun to show it to some people at school. Dec 10, 2006

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

I have been informed that this problem goes easier with a left leg-stuff/calf-hook. I found this problem incredibly desperate, but I did not use the leg stuff. Perhaps the beta on this has "evolved." At any rate, Calm climbs the red line in the photo. To my knowledge, the blue line has not been climbed. Dec 11, 2006

Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN

Mike- I'm I'll put the picture up right now. I'll put it up under Harappan Civilization though.
Jay- When I do this route I'm to short to be able to use the foot- jam. But, I would agree that with it, it makes it easier. On the other note, the blue line has been done before. Some people who I know have done it (and seen it) are Adam Glass and Mike Taylor. I have just started working this variation and it is much harder then the right. Dec 11, 2006

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

Does anyone know the name/grade of the blue line? Dec 11, 2006

Leveille
Appleton, WI

V3-4

Thx for the picture Pete,

I also agree that the huge foot move is somewhat cheap and makes that part of the route quite a bit easier. I don't know about the blue line but I have no doubt that Adam would have sent that. Dec 11, 2006

James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO

Upon further review this is definitely V4... Dec 26, 2006

Seth Carlson
Wausau, Wisconsin

A little dyno skips the crimps. A very fun V3 May 23, 2008

Witt

V4+

the blue line is definitely the harder of the two lines. v4 if the red is v3. there is a high right hand pinch that allows a big reach around the bulge. the blue line is a more sustained problem and lots of fun, just remember an extra pad.
As of 11/21/09 a key hold has been broken off of the blue line's route. Updated rating is V4+. Aug 17, 2008

Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI

Blue Line is definitely the best of the two variations. Worked on it yesterday with John and figured out all the moves, just have to come back when I am fresh to send. Stiff V4 that way. Apr 13, 2011

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

I've always climbed the blue line. Both lines can utilize the foot jam. And it's definitely not a cheap move and doesn't help everyone. It's one of the more unique moves I've pulled while climbing. Jun 16, 2011

Tito Krull

this route is sweet, it can be bumped up to at least a V6 if you challenge yourself by sit starting under the ceiling on the right side, and by eliminating the huge slab to hook onto, it leaves you with two small but decent pockets to work with. making it much more difficult...(: Oct 13, 2012

Mark Hense
Wisconsin/Colorado

Still fun to be had, but lots has pulled from the little ceiling at the start of this route, so be prepared to have to suss thing differently than the photo. We spent and hour or so there and the bottom is pretty loose. Sep 21, 2015

Joel Ledvina
La Rue, WI

Variation: "Sleep Now in the Fire" V5/6

Start as for Formidable Forecast, climb through Calm like a Bomb but eliminate the large block for both hands and feet. Surprisingly interesting and probably has been done before. Jun 20, 2020