Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Greg Hand & Kent Lugbill, 11/15/06
Page Views: 957 total · 7/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Although short, this climb has good moves on steep rock. Follow laybacks past 3 bolts to the anchors. The crux is at the 3rd bolt. Climb this first and then lower to the ledge at the start of Angel of Mercy and do that climb.

Location

It is left of Angel of Mercy. This can be approached from the base of Angel of Mercy or by traversing in from the top of the cliff from left of the climb. The traverse is easy, but it is probably not "dog friendly".

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #3 Friend can be used for the belay at the base of the climb.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Great holds at somewhat less than ideal angles. Climbs like a steep route- too bad it is a pain to get to the base and too bad its only 20' long... 5X longer would make it a sought-after classic. Jun 11, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This looks a lot harder from the ground than it really is. Apr 28, 2013
Drew Megura  
 
Surprisingly enjoyed this route. It's a pain to find but actually not too hard to get to. The route feels like more of a boulder problem as all the moves seem sustained but for only ~20 feet of climbing. I noticed the hanger on the right anchor when looking up was a little loose, but the bolt seemed tight. I'd say this route is still worth checking out. Aug 6, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.10a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10a
Best approach is to climb Depends & then traverse right on a narrow ledge to the base of Devil In Disguise. This is the same ledge that can be accessed by a short downclimb from the left summit. Definitely not dog friendly, & a rope is advised. Various cams (small-medium) can be used to set up an anchor. For such a short climb, this is really fun. Overhanging jug haul moves. It is possible to rappel to the ground from the top anchor. Tie a knot in the end of the rope to be safe. Mar 25, 2018
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
My partner and I tried to find this climb today. We finally figured out where it is (the anchors are around the corner to the right of Depends' anchors at about the same height but not visible from the base of Depends or the trail/ledge around the corner). Maybe we didn't find the easiest approach, but the ways we found are awful. You can walk out right of Depends on the trail/ledge and scramble straight up some chossy, mossy, blocky crap, or alternately from the base of Depends and Sponge Bath walk all the way left up the hill then trend right, passing above the anchors for Depends and Sponge Bath, and drop back down when you see the bolts and anchors for this climb and Angel of Mercy. Both of these approaches are 4th Class, have tenuous moves on shitty and/or slabby rock, and could be dangerous especially in bad weather. Not worth it, IMO. Aug 19, 2018