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Routes in Nursing Home

Angel of Mercy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aricept S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Depends T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devil in Disguise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Digital Stimulation T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elder Abuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Failure To Thrive S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Freak Brothers V10 7C+
Grampa's Day Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hip Replacement S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Dentures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sponge Bath T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sundowning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Kent Lugbill
Page Views: 297 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Start on the the same flake for Lost Dentures. Stick clip the first bolt and reach right to a small layaway. Crank to a good bucket and then follow the bolts to the anchor.


Three bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The first move of this climb is interesting but the rest not too exciting. If you had a pad you could do this as a boulder problem, since the crux isn't that high. The first move is burly, requiring a powerful powerful shoulder to push off the left flake to get the left-facing incut with the right hand. (I don't recommend trying the intermediates.) Being taller helps. From here you can lock off and clip. Then you reach up (I crossed over with the left) to the right to a big jug and the climb is done. Apr 16, 2006
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
When first led by Bob, the big jug did not exist. A 2 foot high detached column sat on the jug. After we realized it was loose, we pushed it off to avoid an accident. Apr 16, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Definitely bring the stick clip for this one unless you're a solid 5.11 leader. The crux sequence requires some precise body position while the pump meter is ticking. My partners and I all did the final move to the jug as a dyno with the left hand crossing over. After that, it's an easy ramble to the anchor shared with Lost Dentures. Sep 5, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Height or arm-length dependent. A reach followed by a scrunch problem. You have to make a semi-hard move to clip the first bolt, so in reality, you might as well be bouldering the start. And that's pretty safe- the point is to get a spot at the beginning.
This route is 37 feet long including the top-out to the anchors. Aug 23, 2007
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
At the request of a climber, I have equipped Hip Replacement with its own set of anchors. This will eliminate rope abrasion while lowering or top roping. Sep 16, 2007
I agree with Ron's assessment, above. This felt like a fun, interesting V1/V2 boulder problem (easier for tall folks) followed by a short bit of 5.8 climbing. Recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and spotters for the first bolt. Oct 9, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I guess I could call this 10+, but I thought the opening sequence up to the jug above the first bolt was trickier than anything on Early Bird Special, across the street.

I up and downclimbed the opening section 5 or 6 times before I found beta that worked for me without having to lunge through it, and then it was still hard. It is an interesting boulder problem, but the rest of the route left much to be desired. Oct 17, 2007
This is basically a V something or other boulder problem with 5.7 climbing to the anchors. Not really worth the shoulder wrenching 1st moves. Jul 19, 2013
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
Moves up to the first bolt felt pretty hard for 10d. Being tall helps.... Jun 10, 2016
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
I agree with most of the above comments, either stick clip, or worst case it's a 6ft fall from the large jug to a flat landing. 3 fun moves of a boulder problem to uninspiring 5.7 climbing above. Sep 15, 2017
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Definitely stick clip to protect the first moves. You can avoid doing a big dyno off the jug if you patiently look around. Stop reading now if you don't want the beta.

Dyno avoidance beta: match hands on the big jug, get your feet off the ground. Use the acceptable left-leaning rail above the jug with your right hand, and find a small but positive crimp up higher and slightly left with your left hand. Hold fast to the crimp, get both feet up on the jug (maybe wedge your right foot behind it), then stand up, and lean out right to the mediocre right-hand hold by the first bolt. Using this beta, the crux is more like 10 b/c than 10d. As others have said, the route is much more mellow from there. Aug 19, 2018

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