Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dog Wall

Cat Walk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cujo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dog Logic (aka Here Kitty, Kitty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggy Style T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man's Best Friend T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
No Dogs Allowed (aka K-9) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pleasure Dog (aka It's a Bitch) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Chainsaw Massacre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wok the Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: (TR) Rick Shull, Chris Miller & Tim Fearn, February 1988, FL: Geoff Weigand, February 1988
Page Views: 1,657 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


58 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climbs a vertical to gently overhanging wall on good edges to anchors at the lip of the wall. This was the second bolted line on the wall; it was orinally a toprope problem but soon after bolted.

  • Listed in current guidebooks as Here Kitty, Kitty and rated 5.11c.

Location

Located in the center of the wall, this is the third bolted line from the left.

Protection

4 bolts, anchors (3/8" & 1/2" SS)

Photos

Ben May
Escondido, CA
 
Ben May   Escondido, CA
 
  • **It's not all that bad. Reach for a critical left hand crimp and move to a higher right hand then you're at the jug. It's a little scary but not bad. It's a short and fun climb.
Oct 30, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c PG13
fwiw- i've seen several people take the fall off the crux on this thing with a regular draw on the first bolt and no one has tapped the deck. Everyone has ended up 2 feet or more above that starting shelf.

thats part of the reason we didnt mess with the bolt configuration. but i do agree- this, along with some other routes at this cliff were not bolted with any sort of thought whatsoever... Dec 20, 2011
What John is saying above is that because there is a hard starting move, the *crux above* was left unprotected. Now, he didn't bolt the thing, and isn't responsible for what the bolter did. That said, this route was bolted stupidly, and I'd much rather have a spot for the first two moves, then a protected crux with a safe fall, than a bolt-protected AND spotted starting move to an unprotected decking crux.

For what it's worth, I onsighted this climb ground-up my first year in Vegas. It's good climbing, just not safely bolted. Even with a single locker on that first bolt there's no way ankles aren't getting broken on this one, the pucker factor feels more Fixx Cliff than Dog Wall to me the way it is. Dec 19, 2011
Dan Lautzenheiser
Henderson, NV
 
Dan Lautzenheiser   Henderson, NV
 
Fun pulls on solid edges.

Safety: short draw or carabiner on 1st bolt and a good belay.
2nd bolt is fine, you clip off an incut jug.

Hard to grade this route...it felt to me like a V3 boulder problem with 5.10 climbing above. Nov 15, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c PG13
On 2/2/11, the ASCA replaced the 2nd bolt and the anchors on this route with 1/2 x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The anchors are equipped with mussy hooks.

Note: Upon consideration, we chose to leave the start bolted as it is, as the initial difficult move could result in a major injury if we moved the first bolt up high enough to protect the crux well (and make it a stick clip mandatory climb)- we felt that a tight belay is adequate.

Note 2: The second bolt was moved up both to facilitate the rope being out of the way for the crux if you stick clip it (as you should), and to lessen the fall if you fall going for the third bolt.

Note 3: The ASCA cannot add bolts to established climb, despite what we consider a very strong argument for a new second bolt on this route. Feb 2, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c PG13
Another tip if you dont have a stick clip is to use just a carabiner (no draw) on the first bolt- this works well and takes 6" off the fall, which definitely could matter.

That said, this route could definitely have used a different bolt setup- the second bolt should be lower, and an extra bolt should have been put in a little above the crux- this would take the edge off the route and make it an enjoyable climb for anyone projecting .11s. Dec 27, 2009
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
The crux was not bolted well on this climb. If you come off on the delicate crux your belayer had better be paying attention to keep you off the ground. Of course one can always stick clip the second bolt and avoid a sprained ankle altogether. BTW if your over 6' the crux is probably 10d, 11c for us short people. Jan 5, 2007