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Routes in East Face
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Alice Does Wonderland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Arrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Frodo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lord of the Ring S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Smaug S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Soft Start S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Variation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Where the Thrush Knocks S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 34.25347, -107.91027 |
| FA: | Lance Hadfield and Chris McConaugh |
| Page Views: | 875 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Craig Childre on Oct 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
Shares the same start as Black Arrow (remember the guano to the right!) under the cave. Again avoid the bird slime up to the first bolt, reach high to clip the second, and trend slightly left. The wall is less than overhung after the second bolt and it looks pretty run-out. Also, it appears that holds are non-existent from the ground when looking between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. However, they are there! Keep at it. And though there are a few tricky moves above the second bolt, you will soon be touching bomber jugs before you get close to the third. Clip the third bolt and endure the crux between the third and fourth, where small holds and overhanging rock threaten, but soon there is again a jug. Continue through jugs to the anchor.
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