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Routes in East Face

Alice Does Wonderland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Arrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frodo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lord of the Ring S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smaug S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Start S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Variation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where the Thrush Knocks S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Lance Hadfield and Chris McConaugh
Page Views: 247 total, 2/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Shares the same start as Black Arrow (remember the guano to the right!) under the cave. Again avoid the bird slime up to the first bolt, reach high to clip the second, and trend slightly left. The wall is less than overhung after the second bolt and it looks pretty run-out. Also, it appears that holds are non-existent from the ground when looking between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. However, they are there! Keep at it. And though there are a few tricky moves above the second bolt, you will soon be touching bomber jugs before you get close to the third. Clip the third bolt and endure the crux between the third and fourth, where small holds and overhanging rock threaten, but soon there is again a jug. Continue through jugs to the anchor.

Location

Right most route on the downhill wall but goes straight up instead of traversing right as Black Arrow does.

Protection

6 Bolts, Chains.

Photos

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lance hadfield
tijeras
 
lance hadfield   tijeras
 
FA Lance Chris Mar 17, 2010