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Routes in East Face

Alice Does Wonderland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Arrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frodo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lord of the Ring S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smaug S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Start S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Variation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where the Thrush Knocks S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Jennie Garcia and Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 281 total · 2/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Same start as Frodo, within a guano ridden cave-like structure at the far north end of the crag. Take your pick of holds at the start, doing your best to avoid the nasty bird slime that inhabits a few of the hold off to your right. Mmmmmmm, just wipe it on your pants and keep climbing you ninny! Clip the first bolt and perhaps even the second above that if you desire, and traverse right on a large easy ramp until you can clip the next bolt. The crux follows the first bolt off the ramp and the next bolt is quite poorly placed as you risk an ankle biter on the ledge below should you bite it through the crux. After the crux endure the jugs to the chains.

Location

The rightmost route on the wall facing the road, the downhill side.

Protection

5-6 Bolts (depending on if you clip the second), Chains.

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