Avg: 3.3 from 309
votes
A beautiful three-star route next to Annie Oh!, Limelight, and Arrow.
P1: 80 feet of classic climbing. The guide says to start on either side of large block; the right side seems easier. Wander up the face above, passing one roof by a notch on its left then moving right under the next small roof. Make a few cruxy moves up the face above, then follow low angle climbing back left to the belay ledge. Use one of several big trees to belay.
P2: 80'. More great climbing! From the tree, follow the path of least resistance to a ledge with a smaller tree ~40 feet up and left. There's not much pro if you go straight up (but it's more fun!); otherwise, head right and then back left for easier terrain and better pro. You'll find a nice move just below a pin, then a couple of thin moves after the pin to a nice rest, under the roof. Traverse right , then up the diagonal crack/notch to the chain anchor. This pitch wanders a lot - beware of rope drag!
The 2nd pitch has some great moves -- it's one of the nicest pitches at the Gunks.
Rappel: Two 60m ropes get you within a few feet of the ground (with stretch - watch the ends). Alternatively, a single rap brings you down to the first pitch tree, and will keep you out of the way of other climbers.
Location: About 14 minutes down the carriage road, the carriage road turns gently right where a river of white rocks meet the road.
Standard Gunks rack. Rated PG; several solid 5.8+ moves above a fixed pin of uncertain reliability.
The pin on P2 has good gear several feet below it, and can be backed up with a small micronut.
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Morrison, CO
Newark, DE
But it is pretty and white ;-) Jul 22, 2009
Philadelphia
boulder
I also agree that the Gunks are classified as a quartz conglomerate, a sedimentary rather than a metamorphic rock. But, some areas, like around Arrow, seem to be micro crystalline quartz, which suggests metamorphism. I have not researched this, but believe that what may have happened is that the quartz from the sand grains and pebbles went into solution and later precipitated as micro crystalline quartz, like chalcedony or jasper. This could have happened without the entire cliff being metamorphosed.
That is why the rock is so glassy and smooth, like quartzite, e.g, Unita climbing NE of SLC.
We also noticed on Disneyland that there are faulted glassy surfaces, slickensides, between the horizontal layers. So there has been some movement horizontally between the layers that causes glassy surfaces. Nov 28, 2011
Easton, PA
Montreal, QC
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
Brooklyn, NY
North Conway, NH
(I would agree with the Gunks App rating recommendation 5.9-) Sep 19, 2016
High Falls NY
Seattle