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Routes in The Dungeon

Escape Tunnel T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4- 6B
Iron Maiden V8 7B
Life Without Parole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4 6B
Warden, The T V8 7B
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Type: Trad, Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 3,390 total · 24/month
Shared By: JNE on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is probably Vedauwoos most classic leavitation problem. Start at the back of the short roof on two hand jams and kick your feet out over the wide lip. You will find a helpful crimp along the way, but the real meat of the problem lies in the contorted leavitation needed to work your way up to the fist at the top of the offwidth slot that starts at the lip. Strange sequence. After you squirm into the pod above the fist crawl into the cave and then down or drop onto your pad. This little beast is a lot of people's first leavitation problem. Classic.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the crack coming out the cave on the northwest side of The Dungeon.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A pad is sufficient. You can also do it without a pad and just a spotter, as you come out of this one fairly slowly.
Nick Barczak
  V4
Nick Barczak  
  V4
I think this feels significantly harder than Desiderata. Aug 1, 2013

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