Type: Trad, Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 2,451 total · 16/month
Shared By: JNE on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


The Warden is one of the hardest crack problems in Vedauwoo. Scarpelli originally started this at the lip on his bum where his monster fists allowed him to get a nice double fist stack. If you don't have big hands, this start may not work for you. Instead you can start with a little left hand crimp on the right and inside the crack and an alright, right arm chicken wing. In either case, swing your feet up into the crack, and head for the constriction above, following the crack to the tall topout. This is burly. Since the original start is so hand size specific, in order to open this problem up for more people to try and have fun on, I added an extended start, upping the quality of the problem a little in my opinion. This start begins standing at the back of the tunnel at the obvious bomber fist. Use this fist to get up into the chimney, and then cartwheel out to the constriction at the lip, which you have to go under to get around. It's really not any harder than the original start, just a little less arbitrary of a place to start. Both versions share the same crux. This problem has very bizzarre and cool movement, and it is definitely a classic offwidth problem.


This is the wide thing to the left of Escape Tunnel.


A pad or two is sufficient. When Bob first did this problem it was before crash pads had really caught on. He said he fell many times onto his back and side before he succeeded.


Dan, the problem you seem to be describing, and the problem in your pictures is actually escape tunnel, which is a quality flared wide crack as well. The warden is the gaping fissure just to the left of Escape Tunnel. Jan 11, 2008
The last start mentioned really does add to the quality. Fantastic line! Aug 7, 2017
Erik N
Boulder, CO
5.12+ V8
Erik N   Boulder, CO
5.12+ V8
Turning upside down in the chimney (via start option two) has to be one of the funnest moves I’ve ever done. I would recommend trying those starting moves even to those who think the crux is far beyond their ability. Sep 27, 2018