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Life Without Parole

5.12- V4, Trad, Boulder, 10 ft,  Avg: 3.4 from 20 votes
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Dungeon
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is probably Vedauwoos most classic leavitation problem. Start at the back of the short roof on two hand jams and kick your feet out over the wide lip. You will find a helpful crimp along the way, but the real meat of the problem lies in the contorted leavitation needed to work your way up to the fist at the top of the offwidth slot that starts at the lip. Strange sequence. After you squirm into the pod above the fist crawl into the cave and then down or drop onto your pad. This little beast is a lot of people's first leavitation problem. Classic.

Location

This is the crack coming out the cave on the northwest side of The Dungeon.

Protection

A pad is sufficient. You can also do it without a pad and just a spotter, as you come out of this one fairly slowly.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Now kiss your knees and stack like a mofo!
[Hide Photo] Now kiss your knees and stack like a mofo!
Me on Life Without Parole<br>
<br>
Photo: J. Anderson
[Hide Photo] Me on Life Without Parole Photo: J. Anderson
Bob Scarpelli on his classic "Life Without Parole"
[Hide Photo] Bob Scarpelli on his classic "Life Without Parole"
Palming down out of the invert on "Life Without Parole."
[Hide Photo] Palming down out of the invert on "Life Without Parole."
I didnt quite get it, but after 2 days at the Voo... I am not going to beat myself up too much.
[Hide Photo] I didnt quite get it, but after 2 days at the Voo... I am not going to beat myself up too much.
Out of the dark... and into the light.
[Hide Photo] Out of the dark... and into the light.
Jason Anderson on Life Without Parole.
[Hide Photo] Jason Anderson on Life Without Parole.
Some climber on Life Without Parole.  Photo by G.J.
[Hide Photo] Some climber on Life Without Parole. Photo by G.J.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Barczak
  V4
[Hide Comment] I think this feels significantly harder than Desiderata. Aug 1, 2013