Cadillac Desert
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.00061, -116.04594 |
| FA: | Chris Miller, January 1996 |
| Page Views: | 894 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Sep 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Incut patina edges lead up to the crux, which comes at mid-height where the rock turns tan in color and the holds get less positive. Here you'll be forced to utilize tips friction while you get your feet over a bulge. The climb eases after the crux and is your standard Josh steep slab to the top.
Also the name of an eye-opening book by Marc Reisner about water and the development of the desert southwest.
Location
This is the bolted line between Irie Heights and Sunday Afternoon which starts inside a wide chimney and climbs an attractive, brown patina face.



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