Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Let Me Know
Page Views: 5,712 total · 38/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


83 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.

I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.

Location

Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.

Protection

4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.

Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that. Jan 27, 2008
Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out. Nov 9, 2008
ChadC
San Diego CA
 
ChadC   San Diego CA
 
We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.

To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also. Feb 17, 2013
Coon  
This felt a lot easier than Black Rider (11b), but bolt to bolt is indeed MUCH harder than bailing left. Going straight up from third bolt is actually pretty difficult involving a big deadpoint from tiny sharp hand holds and smeared feet. Bailing left to the nice ledges is more 5.9ish and would probably put the route low 5.10 because of the opening move. Jun 30, 2013
Mackenan Grassi
  5.10d
Mackenan Grassi  
  5.10d
Staying right of the bolts definitely gives the full value experience, though the left rock-over move is pretty fun too. Highly recommend trying both variations at the third bolt. Jul 2, 2017