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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Let Me Know
Page Views: 5,044 total, 37/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.

I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.

Location

Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.

Protection

4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.
Mackenan Grassi
  5.10d
Mackenan Grassi  
  5.10d
Staying right of the bolts definitely gives the full value experience, though the left rock-over move is pretty fun too. Highly recommend trying both variations at the third bolt. Jul 2, 2017
Coon  
This felt a lot easier than Black Rider (11b), but bolt to bolt is indeed MUCH harder than bailing left. Going straight up from third bolt is actually pretty difficult involving a big deadpoint from tiny sharp hand holds and smeared feet. Bailing left to the nice ledges is more 5.9ish and would probably put the route low 5.10 because of the opening move. Jun 30, 2013
ChadC
San Diego CA
 
ChadC   San Diego CA
 
We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.

To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also. Feb 17, 2013
Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out. Nov 9, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.

Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that. Jan 27, 2008