Type: Trad, Sport, 25 ft
FA: Art Messier
Page Views: 1,777 total · 11/month
Shared By: Stephanie on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Follow the thin crack up the arete to a shallow dihedral.

Protection

2 bolts. Small nuts.

Photos

david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
This is the two bolt climb directly to the left of the dihedral. This is a face climb there is a thin finger crack part way up the climb. The crack will take small nuts(and you will probably need them). Continue up to second bolt and rap rings at top of climb. Without small nuts this climb is R rated Oct 27, 2006
david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
Some inconsiderate person chopped the first bolt on this climb so be careful! Several other climbs at Mission Gorge have bolt damage as well. Why would someone find the need to damage some classic routes and potentially endanger people? Jan 25, 2007
C Miller   CA  
My guess is that the recent route vandalism is payback for Art's bolt chopping escapades at El Cajon Mt.. Jan 25, 2007
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
Led it today sans the second bolt (or was it the first?). Wouldn't have minded another bolt lower down on the route but it protects with two small nut placements. I used a small BD purple and a small BD black. You get your first nut placement on solid ground, it just takes a while to build up the confidence to climb past it. Be confident on your placements and climbing skills before jumping on this one.

The friend of mine who sent me up this says that the first time he led it 6 years ago there was only one bolt. I did not see a missing one (doesn't mean it wasn't there). Maybe it is one of those phantom bolts that keeps coming and going. Aug 19, 2007
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
If this is the route I think it is, it has definitely only the second bolt, past the crux section. I placed just the single nut in the small pod, and clipped the second bolt. Still a fun climb. Mar 20, 2010
There are actually 2 very solid nut placements about 3-4 feet apart. It's recommended you use both of them.
The lower bolt was not necessary. There is enough gear for someone who knows how to trad climb. It was initially placed by Art, maybe it was removed by him. Mar 20, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   California
  5.10a
I agree with Rocky. If you lead this take the two nut placements since that's where the crux is. I used a #1 and a #2 Metolius nut. They were small, but bomber. Aug 29, 2011