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Routes in Middle Earth

Afterthought TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anduril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Art Imitates Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art of the Pissant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Kahuna S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Rider S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Caradhras T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clairemont Calling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dimrill Stair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarrowdelf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fangorn Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fool's Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandalf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Glamdring S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Isengard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Karmic Relief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Khazaddum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Bruiser T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lord of the Rings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Marranon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merryanne TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Finger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orc T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orthanc S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Out on a Whim T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radagast T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Business T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wrestling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sam I Am T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelob's Lair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slice and Dice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smeagol's Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Straight Out of Sitka TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strider TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strider Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
When Good Books Go Bad TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 25 ft
FA: Art Messier
Page Views: 1,605 total, 11/month
Shared By: Stephanie on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Follow the thin crack up the arete to a shallow dihedral.

Protection

2 bolts. Small nuts.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
I agree with Rocky. If you lead this take the two nut placements since that's where the crux is. I used a #1 and a #2 Metolius nut. They were small, but bomber. Aug 29, 2011
There are actually 2 very solid nut placements about 3-4 feet apart. It's recommended you use both of them.
The lower bolt was not necessary. There is enough gear for someone who knows how to trad climb. It was initially placed by Art, maybe it was removed by him. Mar 20, 2010
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
If this is the route I think it is, it has definitely only the second bolt, past the crux section. I placed just the single nut in the small pod, and clipped the second bolt. Still a fun climb. Mar 20, 2010
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
Led it today sans the second bolt (or was it the first?). Wouldn't have minded another bolt lower down on the route but it protects with two small nut placements. I used a small BD purple and a small BD black. You get your first nut placement on solid ground, it just takes a while to build up the confidence to climb past it. Be confident on your placements and climbing skills before jumping on this one.

The friend of mine who sent me up this says that the first time he led it 6 years ago there was only one bolt. I did not see a missing one (doesn't mean it wasn't there). Maybe it is one of those phantom bolts that keeps coming and going. Aug 19, 2007
C Miller   CA  
My guess is that the recent route vandalism is payback for Art's bolt chopping escapades at El Cajon Mt.. Jan 25, 2007
david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
Some inconsiderate person chopped the first bolt on this climb so be careful! Several other climbs at Mission Gorge have bolt damage as well. Why would someone find the need to damage some classic routes and potentially endanger people? Jan 25, 2007
david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
This is the two bolt climb directly to the left of the dihedral. This is a face climb there is a thin finger crack part way up the climb. The crack will take small nuts(and you will probably need them). Continue up to second bolt and rap rings at top of climb. Without small nuts this climb is R rated Oct 27, 2006