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Routes in Dream Land

Asleep at the Wheel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
B-52 Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Bong S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Douggie and Jimmy's Excellent Adventure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Snake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hooray for Boobies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Itty Bitty Titty Comittee S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neon Forest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Sleep Til Brooklyn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Dog Attack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired Me Awake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 12,457 total · 84/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Aug 1, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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329 Opinions

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Description

A very unique route with varied climbing. Start with a steep pocket section to a lower angle mid section to another steep spot and then the real fun. Stem through the trough above...

Location

center of beer bong wall through the obvious groove

Protection

9 bolts

Climbtech Hooks added by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)
Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Bruce Pech   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
I counted 10 bolts on August 24, 2006. The spectacular but comparatively easy finish is worth 4 stars. Aug 26, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Make sure you face outwards on the upper stem section for more exposure. Aug 28, 2006
OkieGirl
Boulder finally
  5.10a
OkieGirl   Boulder finally
  5.10a
He's right, turn around. Not often can you enjoy the scenery in the midst of the moves. Hangers are set up nicely for this anyway. Jul 8, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10-
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10-
Somebody that I was with said that this was more of a novelty route, and I definitely agree - it's not often you get this nice stemming like you do at the top of this route. Other than that, it seems that this route is relatively straight-forward, with the crux actually at the bottom. I almost blew right past that first bolt in the upper section, but the climbing is relatively easy, so it wouldn't have been catastrophic (just don't fall as you will bounce off the slab below). Jul 9, 2008
BBQ
  5.10-
BBQ  
  5.10-
Love this route! If you have not had a lot of lead experience at the 5.10 level, this route will not disappoint. You will be guaranteed to leave with a sense of real accomplishment, and a natural high that won't lead to a nasty hangover or alcohol poisoning. Apr 7, 2009
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
 
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
 
One of the funnest routes in the Canyon. Awesome top out with a killer view! Sep 12, 2010
Matt.H Haron
  5.10-
Matt.H Haron  
  5.10-
Classic route. Oct 1, 2012
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
 
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
 
Too cool! A Must do warm up if your need something different from the Slavery warm ups. Jul 17, 2013
kayajn
 
kayajn  
 
First 10 lead! I loved it. Well protected, and such an amazing and rewarding view. Definitely face outwards on the end stemming section. So good!! That being said, get a good look at the top of any route you climb in Tensleep. Every view is absolutely stunning. Sep 22, 2014
Henryluedtke
Wisconsin
Henryluedtke   Wisconsin
Super fun route, enjoy the view, but wear a helmet. When my buddy and I were tying in at the base, a softball sized rock shot down Beerbong's slot right towards where the belayer would stand. Don't want to freak anyone out because its a sick line and rockfall is probably pretty rare but just wear a helmet. Oct 18, 2014
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
This thing is a blast. Definitely a novelty, but a ton of fun. Cruxy start to nice pockets - bong portion itself is super unique and allows for many different ways to get to the chains. Aug 11, 2015
Jess Arnold
Minneapolis, MN
Jess Arnold   Minneapolis, MN
The rap rings are currently a little too well-loved & so are the alpine draws that a previous climber left (as of Sep. 2017) Sep 3, 2017
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.10b
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
  5.10b
In attempt to not get any crotch shot photos on this route, I took the drone up on it today. You can see a preview of the route here: youtu.be/CrOPMgp0CKw Jul 3, 2018
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
Climbtech Hooks added by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI) Aug 31, 2018

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