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Routes in Dream Land

Asleep at the Wheel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
B-52 Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Bong S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Douggie and Jimmy's Excellent Adventure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Snake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hooray for Boobies S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Itty Bitty Titty Comittee S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neon Forest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Sleep Til Brooklyn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Dog Attack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired Me Awake S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Snyder
Page Views: 2,011 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


105 Opinions

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Description

This is a great warm up route and almost a three star route. Until just past the last bolt the climbing is 5.9 or less. Climb up fun vert and less than vert climbing on pockets and edges, just before the roof. Crank a couple of moves to reach the jugs just right of the anchors. Clip the chains (nearly the crux) and take a ride into space.

Location

This fun line is just to the right of the obvious Beer Bong (10b). Climbs through a large white section of rock at mid height before tacking the roof to the right of the BB chute.

Protection

8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
^^^ +1 for E. Thatcher's point regarding the need to clip with one hand. Seems pretty standard. Jun 14, 2016
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
Felt a bit harder than Beer Bong; bit more sustained with slightly smaller pockets, but another great route with a cool finish. Aug 11, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
^^^ brilliant Haha

I enjoyed this more than Beer Bong. Its hard to beqt the bong finish, but the climbing to get to it is a little hard to read. Boobies felt like it flowed way better. I may have just been too hungover to think much though. Regardless, if you came for Beer Bong, do this one too! Sep 18, 2014
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
you know, I seem to always do those. I've found it hard to clip the anchors while holding on with both hands... Aug 13, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
It almost feels mandatory to go for the one-handed anchor clip on this. Try it! Its a ton of fun! Aug 12, 2011
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Best route name EVER! Jul 7, 2008
OkieGirl
Boulder finally
 
OkieGirl   Boulder finally
 
I wish this route pulled the roof. Cord anchors made me look twice but I didn't doubt them. Jul 7, 2008
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
Anchor was repaired. May 9, 2008