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Routes in End Pin

End Pin T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: FA: Wiegand & Cleveland '70. FFA: Goldstne & Williams, '75
Page Views: 954 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A great route, but a rough intro as a first route in the needles. It requires great faith in the friction here.
Climb up the East Face cracks past a bit of gear and a pin, reaching a bolt. Get into a good stance and figure your way past a bulge just below a second bolt, you may or may not decide to place a micro-cam in a little constriction below a slick fingerlock entering the crux. I placed it. My partner did not. Then again, I caught a few hefty falls due to that too... I think it would hold a fall. Anyway, it is a little in the way of the climbing. COmplete the crux, reach over and clip the second bolt, then proceed on pretty good holds and easier moves (5.8+?) to the top, but probably pumped.

Location

On the East Face of the End Pin, staring you in the face as you look at the End Pin formation.

Protection

A few small cams and nuts plus 2 bolts.

Photos

rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
When Williams and I did the FFA in 1975, there was no second bolt (and no other pro) after the crux. Sep 24, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.10d PG13
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10d PG13
This route is on the NORTH face of the End Pin, not the EAST face. There is currently a bomber bolt anchor on the summit, and it looks as though the two bolts on the route have been replaced recently. Sep 2, 2008