Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: FA: Wiegand & Cleveland '70. FFA: Goldstne & Williams, '75
Page Views: 1,011 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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A great route, but a rough intro as a first route in the needles. It requires great faith in the friction here.
Climb up the East Face cracks past a bit of gear and a pin, reaching a bolt. Get into a good stance and figure your way past a bulge just below a second bolt, you may or may not decide to place a micro-cam in a little constriction below a slick fingerlock entering the crux. I placed it. My partner did not. Then again, I caught a few hefty falls due to that too... I think it would hold a fall. Anyway, it is a little in the way of the climbing. COmplete the crux, reach over and clip the second bolt, then proceed on pretty good holds and easier moves (5.8+?) to the top, but probably pumped.


On the East Face of the End Pin, staring you in the face as you look at the End Pin formation.


A few small cams and nuts plus 2 bolts.


Morrison, CO
  5.10d PG13
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10d PG13
This route is on the NORTH face of the End Pin, not the EAST face. There is currently a bomber bolt anchor on the summit, and it looks as though the two bolts on the route have been replaced recently. Sep 2, 2008
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
When Williams and I did the FFA in 1975, there was no second bolt (and no other pro) after the crux. Sep 24, 2011