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Routes in Ely's Peak

Beginner's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bionic Finger Crack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bulge, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coming Unhinged TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Corner Geometry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dihedral, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dislocation Overhang T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flake, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jigsaw T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Outside the Dihedral TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Royal Robbins F12 Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scream TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simple Corner T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Static is a Four Letter Word T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waking Up In Duluth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 1,682 total, 12/month
Shared By: nodin on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Access Restriction: Parking Details

Description

Bionic Finger Crack is located on the Tunnel Bluff just to the left of Dislocation Overhang. The climb shares the same easy first 35 feet (5.5) as Dislocation and then veers left up the obvious little seam. Look for the little pocket, which will be of little use, and then try to jam your fingers into the seam and pull up. If you are leading, your fingers will be in the placements and placing at waist level will be a trick. Try to work your toes into the seam or toe hook the corner. Smearing seems like a good idea and would be if the rock had any friction! It's short, but sweet and will make you feel like a real dude!

Location

A few feet to the left of Dislocation...shares the roof so look for the only overhang.

Protection

Top rope or a few nuts in finger-tip size.

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