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Elevation: 1,212 ft
GPS: 46.6793, -92.25237
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,774 total · 237/month
Shared By: Eli Johnson on Jul 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny
Warning Access Issue: Access Restriction: Parking DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Ely's Peak is Duluth's prefered home crag and lays within the Duluth City Limits. Climbs are short and relativley straight forward with a mix of crack and face climbing on solid basalt. There are two areas here as well as some bouldering. Climbs on the Tunnel Bluff are about 60' and closer to 45 or 50' on the Northwest Bluff. Duluth and the northshore area have a chalk free and bolt free ethic, though a few crags have started to sprout bolts. DO NOT BOLT at Ely's Peak and please leave bolting at other crags to the locals as folks up here are super senstitve about ethics. In general, DO NOT BOLT is the area.
The local schools and camps occassionally host classes at Ely's Peak so be prepared to share the crag. Mornings are generally quiet.
All climbs are easily top-roped and a few are good trad leads. Although there are a couple of stout routes here, the bulk of the climbing is in the sub 5.11 range with most of the classics (if such short climbs can be called such) in the 5.6 to 5.8 range.
Worthwhile climbs include Dislocation Overhang (5.6) and Bionic Finger Crack (5.12a) on the Tunnel Bluff and Corner Geometry (5.6), The Flake (5.7) and The Bulge (5.8) on the Northwestern Bluff.
Get gear at W-Trek Outfitters or Vertical Endeavors and get beer at the Brewhouse, all in Duluth.
Make sure to follow the new climbers access trail just left of the Superior Hiking Trail to access the climbing...DO NOT cut across the private property.

This area has access issues - make sure you know where to park so you do not get towed...also, the DNR is issuing tickets for trespassing so stay on the climber trail!!!

Getting There Suggest change

From I35 heading north or south, exit on Midway Road and head east for three or four miles. Park at the Short Line Park parking lot (with the kiosk) just before you cross the train tracks. Follow the obvious trail for 1/2 mile, keeping right at the fork and follow to the base of the tunnel. Beware the "access" gully...it's loose and a bit scarier than any of the climbs...

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ely's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 30
Corner Geometry
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 67
Dislocation Overhang
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 12
Royal Robbins F12 Overhang
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Jigsaw
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
The Bulge
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Waking Up In Duluth
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
Take Two, They're Small
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Coming Unhinged
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Bionic Finger Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Corner Geometry Northwest Bluff
 30
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Dislocation Overhang Tunnel Bluff
 67
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Flake Northwest Bluff
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Royal Robbins F12 Overhang Tunnel Bluff
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Jigsaw Tunnel Bluff
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Bulge Northwest Bluff
 25
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Waking Up In Duluth Tunnel Bluff
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Take Two, They're Small Northwest Bluff
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport, TR
Coming Unhinged Northwest Bluff
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Bionic Finger Crack Tunnel Bluff
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Ely's Peak »

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