Ely's Peak Rock Climbing
Routes in Ely's Peak
|Beginner's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bionic Finger Crack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Bulge, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Coming Unhinged TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Corner Geometry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dihedral, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Dislocation Overhang T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Flake, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jigsaw T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|New Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Outside the Dihedral TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Royal Robbins F12 Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Scream TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Simple Corner T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Static is a Four Letter Word T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Waking Up In Duluth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|GPS:||46.677, -92.253 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||nodin on Jul 15, 2006|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionEly's Peak is Duluth's prefered home crag and lays within the Duluth City Limits. Climbs are short and relativley straight forward with a mix of crack and face climbing on solid basalt. There are two areas here as well as some bouldering. Climbs on the Tunnel Bluff are about 60' and closer to 45 or 50' on the Northwest Bluff. Duluth and the northshore area have a chalk free and bolt free ethic, though a few crags have started to sprout bolts. DO NOT BOLT at Ely's Peak and please leave bolting at other crags to the locals as folks up here are super senstitve about ethics. In general, DO NOT BOLT is the area.
The local schools and camps occassionally host classes at Ely's Peak so be prepared to share the crag. Mornings are generally quiet.
All climbs are easily top-roped and a few are good trad leads. Although there are a couple of stout routes here, the bulk of the climbing is in the sub 5.11 range with most of the classics (if such short climbs can be called such) in the 5.6 to 5.8 range.
Worthwhile climbs include Dislocation Overhang (5.6) and Bionic Finger Crack (5.12a) on the Tunnel Bluff and Corner Geometry (5.6), The Flake (5.7) and The Bulge (5.8) on the Northwestern Bluff.
Get gear at W-Trek Outfitters or Vertical Endeavors and get beer at the Brewhouse, all in Duluth.
Make sure to follow the new climbers access trail just left of the Superior Hiking Trail to access the climbing...DO NOT cut across the private property.
This area has access issues - make sure you know where to park so you do not get towed...also, the DNR is issuing tickets for trespassing so stay on the climber trail!!!
Access Restriction: Parking Details
Land owner at the end of 123rd Ave W. Make sure to park in the new climber's parking lot, NOT AT THE OLD MUNGER TRAIL. The land owner still feels that he owns all of this land (not true) so stick to the climbers trail and climbing areas and you'll be fine.
Getting ThereFrom I35 heading north or south, exit on Midway Road and head east for three or four miles. Park at the new climber's parking lot (with the kiosk) just before you cross the train tracks. Follow the obvious trail for 1/4 mile to the old train grade and follow to the base of the Tunnel Bluff. Beware the "access" gully...it's loose and a bit scarier than any of the climbs...
Classic Climbing Routes at Ely's Peak
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season