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Routes in The Garden Boulders

All Bernd Down V8 7B
All Bernd Up V10 7C+
Bitchslap V2 5+
Brewmaster V3 6A
Ear, The V4 6B
Garden Groove T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Garden Variety V7 7A+
Gumby Slab V1 5
Heisenberg V9 7C
Into The Light V6 7A
Leary's Lunge V9 7C
Leave it to Jesus V5 6C PG13
Locksmith, The V4 6B
Mole V0-1 4+
Octernal V8 7B
Octernal (Direct Variation) V8 7B
Philanthropy V4+ 6B+
Showboat V1 5
Siren (High Variation), The V3 6A
Siren, The V5 6C
Slabarific V3 6A
Swollen Member V3-4 6A+
Teen Spirit V2 5+
Trust V2+ 5+
Unknown (entrance boulder) V2-3 5+
White Fang V2-3 5+
into the light assis V9 7C
Type: Trad, Sport, 35 ft
FA: FTR: Matt ?? FA: Tyler Adams 2005
Page Views: 1,244 total, 9/month
Shared By: corvegas on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

One of the only roped climbs at the garden.

Location

This route is located on the south side of the giant main boulder in the Garden. Climb the obvious scrubbed crack to a bulge, and bolt, clip the bolt surmount the bulge and move to anchors.

Protection

1 bolt + Anchors, Optional gear to .75 (Blue Alien and Green/Yellow Hybrid Alien protect the first part) or a crash pad.

Photos

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The bolts were added in '08 by a friend of mine. They are useless and should be chopped if they haven't. I haven't a clue why he bolted it, and would hope the precedent is not followed. Oct 11, 2010
Shapp  
I am 99.9% sure that the first ascent on lead was done by Matt Pike around 1994 or so, possibly with Paul Baraza. I am sure there was no lead bolt then, although I think they might have put one on top. There was a bolt on top when I climbed it. I also lead this route in about 1996 and I know others did before me. The FA by Tyler in 2005 as noted above is incorrect. I would wager that many of the supposed FAs in the 2000s were actually not FAs at all. There was quite a bit going on there in the early 1990s. After sitting for a while it is surprising how much moss can accumulate and the boulders reclaimed to an "unclimbed" state. Oct 27, 2009
corvegas
the depths of oregon
 
corvegas   the depths of oregon
 
Peter-

Some people added some useless top rope anchors on problems that had been done with out them. I imagine this is what you saw, those bolts have since been chopped. On this route Matt ???? had added TR anchors years ago but, never did anything with it as it was too dirty. 2 years ago we started cleaning it and cleaned the hell out of it, I decided to add a bolt to the upper unprotectable part, I tryed to protect with beaks but they where tipped out and ripped. This climb is very worthy of useing a rope a fall from above would result in many broken bones. Give it a shot next time your out there and sample something diffrent at the garden. The cliffs back an behind have had some stuff started on it theres a couple of bolts scatterd about and some ropes that have been hanging far on the west end, on the east end there is an Aid climb that was never fineshed that would prolly go free at 11 something. Further down the road just past the damn there is a crag with a couple of TR and sport climbs, right on the left side of the road. Past that on the left side of the road as well there is a small pillar with a couple of routes up it, great veiws to be had. Enjoy! Sep 5, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I'm not aware of anyone else getting on it. Everyone always laughs when I suggest bringing anything but crashpads to the Garden. ;)

What's the word on other roped climbs down there? The first time I was there I saw a bunch of people with a couple of Hiltis and plenty of rigging gear, obviously out to equip some routes. Anything been cleaned off on the little cliffes just up the road? Aug 23, 2006
corvegas
the depths of oregon
 
corvegas   the depths of oregon
 
Any one else done this with all the traffic there now, and how clean it is it seems like someone else may have led it? Aug 22, 2006