Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tom Perkins, M. Voller,1994
Page Views: 4,171 total · 28/month
Shared By: j wharton on Jun 27, 2006
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This is perhaps the best route of its grade on the Pass. Chase 8 bolts up the face with some difficult pulls off crimps down low, and a technical crux above a rest at half height.

Location

This is the fourth route from the right on Wild Rock's steep east face.

Protection

8 bolts to a double bolt anchor.

Photos

Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
This is a rad climb. Definitely the best on The Pass that I've done. Stacked with difficult boulder problems and nice rests, it climbs a big, inspiring overhang. Might be one of the better routes in Colorado for the grade. Nov 4, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great to see you on here, Mr. Sparrow. Great route with fun and interesting movement, multiple cruxes separated by great rests and a pretty cool hang and position. Four stars for sure. In the summer, the route goes into the shade about 1:00 o clock which is important. Expect a sunburn and some lack of motivation if you go up in the morning as it can get real hot.... Jun 29, 2015
Dan Hehnke
Santa Barbara, CA
5.12b
Dan Hehnke   Santa Barbara, CA
5.12b
So good! I didn't get it clean yet, but it's so fun and hard. Way more sustained than many climbs I've seen so far at The Pass. Jul 24, 2015
Pete F.
Denver, CO
 
Pete F.   Denver, CO
 
Yes!!! You want to do this climb!!! Sep 13, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12
Really fun, but worlds harder than Satanic Mechanic (12b at Thindependence). Figured out lower crux, but what am I missing for moving off the huge flake at 2nd to last bolt that makes it 12b? I'm 6'2", so height shouldn't be an issued but got shutdown there.... Jun 20, 2016
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12b
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12b
Geoff, to move off the Texas flake, I cam my right foot into the top of the flake and crank on that to reach the (often wet) finger lock with my right hand. Then it's easy to reach left to the crimp by the next bolt. This move shouldn't be hard; it's not even one of the cruxes! Jun 21, 2016
Yeah, Geoff, it's not even one of the cruxes...guess your muscles are just for show! Jun 21, 2016
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12
Ah, thanks, Alvaro - didn't think to try that, but makes sense. Thx for the beta. Drew, stop hurting my feelings! Jun 21, 2016
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12b
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12b
Stiff for the grade and a tricky onsight to boot - old school .12b will never be down graded. The first four bolts are hard climbing with the fourth clip being a bit tough followed by a bouldery crux. Good no hands rest mid-route after bolt number five with more bouldery moves guarding the chains above. Indy Pass must do! Jul 10, 2017
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Or ...right hand jam in the shark's tooth, left pinky lock, and then crossover right hand to the crimp for that section. Jul 26, 2017