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Routes in Wild Rock

Delicatessen Ridge T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Finger Discount S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Missed the Boat S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Northway TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Problem Child S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Red Headed Step Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Trademark S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild In The Streets S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wild Thing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wild at Heart S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Lenore Sparks, Joe Crotty, Matt Reeser
Page Views: 550 total · 92/month
Shared By: lenore sparks on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Wild at Heart follows the seam, arete, and ultimately the prominent dihedral spiraling around from South Face of Wild Rock. Use the ramp, and clip the first two draws of Wild in the Streets to clip the draw leading to the crack. From here, we back clean the first two draws to minimize rope drag. I recommend a locker on the third clip. Now begins the wild ride. Jam the crack, and continue up and right through jams, horns, underclings, mantels, and stems. This climb has all of the moves. Long or double draws on clips 6, 7, and 8 will help with drag.

Wild at Heart is named after an epic David Lynch movie.

Location

It is on Wild Rock's South face.

This gets morning shade, midday sun, and evening shade. Cleaning can happen in two steps - one from the anchor and the other from Wild in the Streets anchor. Sorry! The route is right-leaning. Or a follower can clean.

Protection

10 draws and an anchor. If you are a bit timid, one can use a #3 Camalot in the crack.

The crack is gritty, and we were using tape or hand jammies.

Photos

dameeser
denver
 
dameeser   denver
 
It's harder now that the chickenhead hold at the crux broke. It goes at 12d or 13a now. Aug 13, 2017
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
Sick route with low cruxes around the crack area. Sliding out of the jams will gobi your hands, but it's actually really smooth except for the top of the last jambs has a chip that's a slicer if you fall out of it. My favorite part was climbing on the actual arete! Who's going to attempt the direct line into the upper half? 5.14!? Jul 26, 2017
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
 
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
 
Looks like a beauty! Jul 25, 2017