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Routes in 03: Dead Tree Wall

Amazing Grace T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
CMC Lives, The TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dead Tree Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Defeat of the DLFA Boys TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dr. Who T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fecal Maneuvers In the Dark T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Grassy Ledge T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Tardis T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walzing Mary T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,830 total · 12/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on May 30, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Not to be missed! 10 Ft. right of Dead Tree Route. Crux is the first 15 feet- a thin tips crack with tricky smears for the feet on left and toe scum in crack opening on the right. Stab for jug above. Excellent pro abounds. Then follow very interesting crack and edges line to top. There is a second and mid way crux when making move from large flake on left up to cool mantle ledge. Upper moves are stellar as well and the whole thing is OK protected... there are a few spots one has to go a body length without protection.

Location

Right side of Dead Tree Wall.

Protection

One fixed pin towards top of the route. Small to medium wires, small three cams, Ball nuts.

Photos

Merlin
Grand Junction
Merlin   Grand Junction
Time and Relative Dimensions in Space? Dec 4, 2006
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
A British phone booth capable of going backward or forward in time?
And from what I have seen capable of geting the user in all sorts of trouble. With Daleks? Exterminate! Dec 5, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Perhaps the crack is larger on the inside than it is on the outside? Dec 6, 2006
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.10b/c
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.10b/c
Good variation to Tardis starts about 8 feet right of the finger crack and bypasses the crux at about 5.9 Jul 9, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10b/c PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10b/c PG13
This was a tough one! I sailed the bottom thinking the rest was "5.9". I was right, I was left, I was sketched out over a #000 C3, it was slightly epic. I think more like 5.10 climbing the whole way.

I placed a #2 Ballnut left of the fixed pin to back it up.

Did you guys go straight up the crack system? I zig-zaged all over the face. Sep 3, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.10b/c
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.10b/c
I went straight up from the beginning crack utilizing the big bulge with my left hand and going for the ledge. From the pin I went diagonally up and left to the top. I had a similar experience as I attempted this climb ground up. I pulled the bottom crux and thought I was done only to fall at the second crux getting to the ledge. There is awesome feeling of exposure on this climb as you finish up above the pin. Sep 4, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
had a hard time pulling the 10b crux off the deck, so i led the 5.9 varition which starts 10' to the right and links back to tardis after about 12'. The route is somewhat spicy from start to finish, a good lead. Jun 8, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10b
Great lead! The protection is good all the way too. May 21, 2014

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