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Routes in Finktion Wall

Brendalicious S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chill Pill S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimanny Crickets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancing Machine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deadbolt S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dos Capitans S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finktion Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire on the Mountain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ipswich Roof S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Johnny Bakemore T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jugs O Jericho T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lo Fi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Murmur S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nobody Home but the Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On The Down Low S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ordinary Bypass S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out n About T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Roc Doc S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sampsonite S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shelley's Whiteout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shock Me Silly T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sideways S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surfing Quartzite S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tropical People S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: David Sampson, M Rangel
Page Views: 623 total, 4/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on May 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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11 Opinions

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Description

The route is steep face til the exit, going out left to get to the anchors it shares with finktion arete was cruxy for me.

Location

Starts just right of Finktion Arete on the face to the right.

Protection

all bolts

Photos

K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
I thought the start was actually the first crux. Good and varied movement from jugs to thin crimps and back again. I thought clipping the last bolt before the finish was the crux for sure. Movement out right on good holds does indeed involve "a bunch of scary looking blocks" which creak and sound hollow but everything worked out fine. Left at this spot puts you on a ledge and intersects "Finktion Arete" and involves some steep pulling. Overall a good route. I was distracted by the sketchy sounding blocks and think I would enjoy it more a second time knowing those blocks aren't widowmakers. Mar 16, 2014
David Arthur Sampson  
  5.10b/c
Although the minor roof does have a bunch of scary looking blocks, Manny and I were unable to dislodge any of those still present. Having said that, choose your own way. Jun 8, 2008
I stayed right at the top but should have gone left. I do not recommend going right as there are a few very loose blocks (that look like footholds from above!) that are ready to come down and cream your belayer. Other than that it was a decent route.. Mar 30, 2008
David Arthur Sampson  
  5.10b/c
Exit the climb left, passing over the last bolt before the shuts on Finktion arete. Oct 21, 2006