Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 4,904 total · 32/month
Shared By: JNE on May 15, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the obvious offwidth on the south side of Worm Drive proper. It goes up a slot for about ten feet then over a three or four foot roof, going to easier vertical terrain after that. The name gives some hint to the beta. This is a must do classic for anyone seeking out Vedauwoos hard offwidths.

Location

This is on the south side of Worm Drive, to the left of the big obvious chimney. There is a good 5.9 warmup two cracks to the right of it with bolts on top.

Protection

Three #5 Friends should do nicely. Bolts up top.

Photos

Bart Paull
Golden, CO
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
This is one of Vedauwoo's best offwidths! Super classic! It has a piss hard move about fifteen feet up, easier for the big-legged of us. Then it's basically textbook hand-fist stacking to the top, with good feet too. This is one of the few relatively straightforward stacking routes at Vedauwoo, once you pull the crux that is. I recommend an old #5 Camalot, a new #6 Camalot, and then 2 or so old #4.5 or new #5 Camalots. Apr 6, 2008
One #6 at the beginning plus two #5s for the middle is sufficient if you move the cams with you. Bring a #4 for the very top if you're faint of heart.... Apr 12, 2015
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
 
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
 
Spoiler Alert! Here is the key beta: Pull really f$%king hard, grunt a lot, repeat. Jun 16, 2016