Type: Trad, Boulder, 35 ft
FA: Justin Edl and Jeff Wendt, 2003
Page Views: 2,551 total · 17/month
Shared By: JNE on May 15, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a spectacular and tall boulder problem. It starts out as very overhanging tight hands and quickly narrows to thin fingers as it rounds out a bulge, then it opens up to flared and then bomber but dirty hands as the bulge rounds over, stranding you on a shelf about twenty feet up. Then you have to climb up some more easy but vertical terrain for about fifteen feet, popping through a hole up top to end up on top of the formation. The last fifteen feet is strewn with good handjams and is pretty secure. Watch out for the moss in the crack at the top of the bulge, you may want to bring out a brush on a long stick or rap down and brush this section, as the moss is thick enough to make it insecure, and you wouldn't want to fall from here.

This thing doesn't get done much, if ever. In fact, it has probably only ever been done once.

Location

This is below the south side of Worm Drive Rocks, see the pictures.

Protection

One pad is actually sufficient. Lay it on the ground at the base of the climb, and have a spotter stand on the big obvious rock. If you fall off the crux (before you completely round the bulge) have your spotter give you a light push onto the pad. After you reach the first good hands, don't fall. To get off, walk off the back(south) side of the formation.

Photos

Why does this get such a huge up grade? Oh yeah, because Edl did it. May 15, 2009
JNE
  V8
JNE  
  V8
I put it originally at 12+, but everyone got shut down on it. This is harder than The Crap Artist, which I have heard from several people, none of which are softies, that they thought it was at least 13-. Other folks who have done that one and graded it on the "modern" standard considered it solid V8, and that's from the stand not the sit. I couldn't confuse the difficulty on these two. I spent two days to do The Crap Artist, and it went first try on the second day, whereas this took me three solid sessions. Also, since you could really hurt yourself falling on the hard part of this one, I felt it deserved to be called closer to what may be the truth. If you want to call me out, get on it, do it. I don't know anyone else who can say they have. If it's not 13-, feel free to tell me so. It won't hurt my feelings. May 17, 2009
JNE
  V8
JNE  
  V8
Another note is that this thing really could use a cleaning. When I did it I didn't want to sacrifice my ethics by rapping it to clean it. Instead I stood on the ground with a wire brush firmly attached on an extendable painter's pole an brushed as much of the moss out as I could. I climbed this with a standard Franklin pad (not the mondo) and one large competent spotter, and I was safe until I hit the tight hands right before the good dirty hands. I thought I was going to fall out of the locker but mossy part though. I desperately wanted to clean it more after the FA, but the only brush I could think of that could get into that flare and actually clean it was a chimney sweeper brush, which was $40 or so. That put it out of my budget. If anybody has any ideas, shoot 'em at me and a day that I have nothing else going on I will get out there and clean this. May 18, 2009
I got The Crap Artist pretty fast, and this thing felt WAY harder. I can get a problem pretty fast if it is in the .12 range...this thing is not in the .12 range. Aug 15, 2009
JdAvalanche
slc, utah
JdAvalanche   slc, utah
Hey Jammer, I think you're confusing 'style' with 'ethics'. It is a common mistake people make when they start to take climbing too seriously. If there is really that much of a difference between cleaning this thing from a rope and cleaning it with some crazy tool from the ground, I'm sure it doesn't qualify as an ethical quandary. Nice send though! Sep 18, 2009
JNE
  V8
JNE  
  V8
Only top down vs. ground up, style or ethics or whatever. There is a specific difference between cleaning something top down vs. ground up though, in that when going top down you get to closely inspect the climbing so there are no surprises. If it is any ethical quandry it is a personal one that does not effect anyone elses climbing. The only problem I see with that is in comparison: you cant compare your efforts with someone elses unless you played by the same set of rules they did. If more people accepted that I think there would be far less hurt feelings or people caring about top down vs. ground up. Nonetheless, for safeties sake this could use a cleaning. Maybe on one of these bad weather days I will get out there. For a cleaner one, you should check out Flight of the Owl. Sep 19, 2009