Type: Trad, Boulder, 35 ft
FA: Justin Edl and Jeff Wendt, 2003
Page Views: 2,827 total · 17/month
Shared By: JNE on May 15, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a spectacular and tall boulder problem. It starts out as very overhanging tight hands and quickly narrows to thin fingers as it rounds out a bulge, then it opens up to flared and then bomber but dirty hands as the bulge rounds over, stranding you on a shelf about twenty feet up. Then you have to climb up some more easy but vertical terrain for about fifteen feet, popping through a hole up top to end up on top of the formation. The last fifteen feet is strewn with good handjams and is pretty secure. Watch out for the moss in the crack at the top of the bulge, you may want to bring out a brush on a long stick or rap down and brush this section, as the moss is thick enough to make it insecure, and you wouldn't want to fall from here.

This thing doesn't get done much, if ever. In fact, it has probably only ever been done once.

Location

This is below the south side of Worm Drive Rocks, see the pictures.

Protection

One pad is actually sufficient. Lay it on the ground at the base of the climb, and have a spotter stand on the big obvious rock. If you fall off the crux (before you completely round the bulge) have your spotter give you a light push onto the pad. After you reach the first good hands, don't fall. To get off, walk off the back(south) side of the formation.

Photos