Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Lenore Sparks and Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 1,297 total · 11/month
Shared By: Lenore Sparks on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a perfect beginner's hand crack just to the right of worm drive. This crack is left leaning and utilizes the left side as a slab/ramp for feet. Begin behind the large boulder. A 'crux' move is near the top when the crack opens up to a fist jam. The climb finishes out left to a 5.4 slab. Belay from the worm drive anchors or behind the top of the slab- then lower off Worm Drive's anchors.

Location

This climb is just right of Worm Drive about 7 feet.

Protection

Hand sizes & a #4 Camalot (protects the top before the slab). Lower off of Worm Drive's anchors.

Photos

Zach Keeney
Rapid City, SD
 
Zach Keeney   Rapid City, SD
 
What is the amazing crack just to the right of this climb? A friend and I climbed it today. I can't believe there isn't a line of people waiting to do that thing. May 25, 2013
John Maurer
Denver, CO
 
John Maurer   Denver, CO
 
I think the route to the right is a 5.9-, or so I heard as reported in the guidebook. I thought it was 5.9, but I worked harder than that up top given my own set of errors. It is a beauty. Climbed it yesterday morning not knowing what it was - the wind whips through the crack and blows out to you (when from the west) as the crack goes all the way through the formation. Quite remarkable - this uniqueness and the route overall. Oct 27, 2013
HughC  
The crack to the right is first gear. 5.9- in my humble opinion, it is one of the best climbs at the grade at the Voo. From fingers to hands to fists to offwidth, it keeps you thinking all the way. Great gear and rests. Stellar! Jul 29, 2015
Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
How does a 40' pitch get a grade II rating? Aug 9, 2017
slim    
Ha ha, I take it you haven't climbed at Vedauwoo. If it is 60 to 80 feet, plan on grade III, if it is 80+ you are looking at a potential grade IV and a skin transplant.... Aug 9, 2017