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Routes in Worm Drive

Back Side Unknown 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Back Side Unknown 2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Side Unknown 3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back Side Unknown 4 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chasm Approach T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Dark Energy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dark Matter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Driving Miss Wormy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eight Ounces To Freedom T V9 7C
Jaws 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Momma's Got a Squeeze Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigeon Nest Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sent For You Yesterday S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider Killer V3 6A
Unknown 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.7 Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where The Wild Things Are T V8 7B
Worm Drive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Lenore Sparks and Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 1,249 total · 12/month
Shared By: Lenore Sparks on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a perfect beginner's hand crack just to the right of worm drive. This crack is left leaning and utilizes the left side as a slab/ramp for feet. Begin behind the large boulder. A 'crux' move is near the top when the crack opens up to a fist jam. The climb finishes out left to a 5.4 slab. Belay from the worm drive anchors or behind the top of the slab- then lower off Worm Drive's anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

This climb is just right of Worm Drive about 7 feet.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Hand sizes & a #4 Camalot (protects the top before the slab). Lower off of Worm Drive's anchors.

Photos

Zach Keeney
Cheyenne, WY
 
Zach Keeney   Cheyenne, WY
 
What is the amazing crack just to the right of this climb? A friend and I climbed it today. I can't believe there isn't a line of people waiting to do that thing. May 25, 2013
John Maurer
Denver, CO
John Maurer   Denver, CO
I think the route to the right is a 5.9-, or so I heard as reported in the guidebook. I thought it was 5.9, but I worked harder than that up top given my own set of errors. It is a beauty. Climbed it yesterday morning not knowing what it was - the wind whips through the crack and blows out to you (when from the west) as the crack goes all the way through the formation. Quite remarkable - this uniqueness and the route overall. Oct 27, 2013
HughC  
The crack to the right is first gear. 5.9- in my humble opinion, it is one of the best climbs at the grade at the Voo. From fingers to hands to fists to offwidth, it keeps you thinking all the way. Great gear and rests. Stellar! Jul 29, 2015
Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
How does a 40' pitch get a grade II rating? Aug 9, 2017
slim    
Ha ha, I take it you haven't climbed at Vedauwoo. If it is 60 to 80 feet, plan on grade III, if it is 80+ you are looking at a potential grade IV and a skin transplant.... Aug 9, 2017

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