Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,695 total · 11/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on May 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Crux up high near anchors, long runout on easy ground between 2nd and 3rd bolts with definite ground fall potential.

Location

2nd route from right on main wall.

Protection

Bolts & chains.

Photos

Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.8 R
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
  5.8 R
Easy ground between B2 and B3, but don't fall unless you want a memorial plaque with your name on it embedded in the rock at the base of the route... Jul 9, 2006
Desicon
  5.8
Desicon  
  5.8
Scott and Jerry:

I have done this climb a number of times, and I've wondered myself if another bolt should be added simply because so many of the climbers here do not bother carrying any gear up with them. The smallest of the Lowe Tricams, pink cord, can be used if protection is desired, about three feet above B2, and there are several cracks that will take small nuts.

About five years ago, a member of the First Ascent team explained that they thought the placement of a bolt between the current B2 and B3 might "look silly and be of minimal safety use" as the best face rock for it is only three feet up from B2. The next solid placement available would put a bolt on the horizontal apron area below B3, and might set up a situation of rope drag for those climbing on quick-draws. Beats me.

Anyway, I'll pass on this information to the FA team if any of them are still in town. Jul 13, 2006
JTC
JTC  
There is a bolt and bolt+chain at the top. The lone bolt loose enough to where I could hand tighten the nut. As I was cleaning this route, I noticed this and went down cautiously.

I would recommend caution to anyone who still wants to climb this route. Sep 19, 2011
mitchl
5.8 R
mitchl  
5.8 R
Both bolt and bolt+chain looked fine.
For the crux at the top, I went right and a bit higher than the bolts, then carefully traversed back to them.
Bring some small pieces of pro- can emphasize enough how run-out the route is. Jun 28, 2015
Desicon
  5.8
Desicon  
  5.8
The First Ascent for Mogenhead was done back in 1992 by Tom Weaver, Bob Flaugher. Both first ascensionists have no problem with another bolt being added if a solid placement can be found. The original line went straight up the face past the second bolt. By moving right up the slanting ramp you miss the real crux, maybe only 5.7 moves out right? Jul 2, 2018