Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ridgeline

Fire Zone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glowing In The Distance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mogenhead S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never to be the Same S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Onsight or Flight S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Perrito S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ridgeback S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Send or Mend S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sissyboyz-8 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Small Brown Mouse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sudden Impact S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Birds with One Stone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind of Change S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Year of the Dragon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brian Shon, Robert Flaugher & Tom Weaver - June 3, 2000
Page Views: 2,162 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brian Shon on Oct 21, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Work up and slightly left over shallow, broken ledges clipping 3 bolts along the way. Face climb past 2 bolts to a stance on small holds. Clip the last bolt then climb up to its right to "good" handholds. Make a couple of committing moves (crux) to get up to the coldshut anchors.

Crux Beta: The crux can be passed with a mantle maneuver or by face climbing extremely thin holds to the left of the mantle hold.

Location

The climb is on the N side of the Ridgeline formation on the other side of the tower opposite Glowing in the Distance. The base of the climb is accessed by climbing the tower on the SE side via Eye of the Dragon (5.5 R, no pro "airy-scary" move) or climbing the NW side via Dragon's Head (5.5 R, exposed but can be protected) and rapelling down off the anchors on top. Alternatively one can hike back around the top of Ridgeline and descend the slope next to the back wall. Start at a short broken up crack and left facing dihedral to the right of a 20 ft high block topped by a small, distressed pine.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 coldshuts

There are 2 bolt anchors with hangers on the top of the formation from which one can set up a rappel. However, there are no chains or slings on the anchors.

Photos

Joshua Munoz  
 
Fun climb for sure.
Very crimpy at parts. The first bolt is very run out but it's an easy easy climb to the first bolt. Sep 9, 2015
Desicon
 
Desicon  
 
Yep, a bit "hairy" to mount the Dragon's Head, easy moves (5.5 will cover it) but, absolutely, do not let go until you are safely seated on the Dragon's Pate!

I did this climb a number of years ago, on a dark (if not stormy)afternoon. In the shade the rock was cold, and the grippy-thin holds were hard on my deteriorating knuckles. But it impressed me as it maintained a general level of difficulty all the way up. I remember only one good rest stance, so the ascent gave me a real forearm pump, LOL, just keep moving! A grand view from the top of the Dragon's head!

At the time I first did this climb I was heading into a period of deep physical decline, but back then it felt 5.10-ish to me. I'm actually in better shape now, and I'll try it again to see what sort of difficulty rating I'd give it now.

Great map and photo Brian, great route description,THANKS! Oct 22, 2007