Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 8,555 total · 54/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 28, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Description

This one is great. Requires no crack technique despite the name. Super enduro- in your face til the end.

Sequential climbing right off the ground. If you are tall it is easier to reach the starting hold with the correct hand. Fun long pulls on mostly good pockets leads up to a shouldery move to the left getting into the bottom of the flake. Some good sidepulls and a pocket out left lead up the flake to a couple of slopier holds and a honking jug at the top and a great rest. From here the climbing gets somewhat sequential and progerssively more difficult as you move up into a shallow right facing corner on pockets and sidepulls. A sidepull pinch on a cobble up high allows one to reach up left out of the corner onto the huge embedded cobble, but there is only a good edge on top. Then its just a couple of more moves up and right on mostly jugs to the anchors.

Location

5th route from the left, has a crack/layback type feature midway up.

Protection

9 bolts to chains.
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
 
The start is a little cruxy then big pockets most of the way up the climb. The last three/four bolts are tougher with smaller holds and steeper climbing. Sep 25, 2007
Dave Wachter  
 
Very pumpy, with some technical cruxes. Top part is dope. I found it hard for the grade (certainly compared to other El Rito routes). Definitely one of the best routes in El Rito (though the short bouldery routes on Beer Block are classic in their own way). Can't imagine giving this one less than 4 stars.
If you're wondering whether or not you've actually sent 5.12a on the Rad Wall after climbing Bolting Barbie, Procrastination, and Stroke Me, you can stop wondering when you clip the chains clean on crack attack. Feb 26, 2008
ScottCThompson
  5.12a
ScottCThompson  
  5.12a
My favorite route at El Rito by far! May 12, 2009
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
This is a stellar route. Reminds me of RRG pockets. Can't wait to come back for more! Nov 20, 2012
Mort
  5.12a
Mort  
  5.12a
The hardest of the Rad Wall "12a's". Excellent! Aug 18, 2013
TR'd after my partner lead the climb. I'm not a .12 climber so I will not rate this route, but I will be back to do this one becasue it is a sweet enduro- route with dynamic moves. It was a struggle, but epic. Oct 12, 2015