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Routes in Rad Wall

Against All Cobbs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bolting Barbie S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Chile Two Step, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Matrix, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Procrastination S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Resurrection S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slacker Ken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stroke Me S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Traverse, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jean Delataillade
Page Views: 3,223 total, 23/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Apr 28, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This one climbs a little different than most of the climbs on Rad Wall. Start at the right side of the in ground flake, climb through the first 2 bolts enduring a mini crux passing the second bolt. From here beware those aren't jugs like they look like from the ground. Make a long runout to get established below the third bolt, from here there is a good hold for clipping. It is possible to deck from here before getting established on the good hold.

Head up and slightly right passing the crimpy hard crux, once past that rest when possible and climb through an easier crux towards the top. Shares anchors with Crack Attack.

Location

Start between Stroke Me and Crack Attack. Starts on the right side of a large flake sticking out of the ground.

Protection

7 bolts to chains shared with Crack Attack

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Finally got on this today, and think it will be a fun project to work when I'm at El Rito.

Since Jean is asking for opinions, (and there seems to be a pattern of adding bolts to NM sport climbs in general recently), I'll suggest this one is appropriately bolted as it is and wouldn't benefit from moving/adding bolts. (My 2 climbing partners today who got on it agreed as well.) Please don't change our project until after we all send it.

You can use a big-ass stick clip and stick-clip b3, or toprope it (clip bolts on the way down, after climbing Crack Attack), if you're not cool with it.

Respectfully, George May 27, 2017
ninjadan
Los Alamos, NM
5.12c
ninjadan   Los Alamos, NM
5.12c
Fun route, super pumpy! :) (not scary or sketchy) Jul 15, 2015
Jeremy Kasmann
Denver, CO
Jeremy Kasmann   Denver, CO
+1 for an extra bolt, it would make the route better IMO. Clipping seemed reasonable from the RH edge (on the otherwise sloping cobble) midway between 2 and 3. May 5, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Going to third bolt will get your attention, but not as bad as it seems. Don't let it keep you off this route. Best on Rad Wall IMO. Nov 7, 2013
Mort
  5.12c
Mort  
  5.12c
My 2 cents... sure doesn't feel easy getting to that third bolt. After reading the comments here, I was all ready to add a bolt. However, I couldn't figure out where I'd stop to clip it, so I didn't add one. Aug 18, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12c
I put in a separate anchor for this route yesterday, 5/11/2012. It's down and to the left of Crack Attack a few feet where there are a couple of good cobbles for the anchor bolts and keeps the anchor over the route. If you feel you're getting cheated a couple moves by using the new anchor, by all means keep on going to Crack Attack's anchor still. The separate anchor will definitely be nice on those busy weekend days.

I also put an belay anchor bolt in the huge cobble buried in the ground at the base. This should help keep the belayer's head out of the leader's ass in case of a fall above the second bolt. May 12, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12c
I would have to agree with Disturbing and Darren on this one. I never found the moves to the third bolt to be particularly easy. Yes, if you have a good belayer, you will not deck, but you will likely cream the sh#t out of them when you come in...not super pleasant. +1 for adding a bolt if anyone is so inclined, though I used to just hang a long draw on my way down from Crack Attack which mitigates the stress a bit. May 24, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
Personally I've never found the move getting to the clipping hold for the third bolt very easy. This move feels just as hard as some of the earlier moves to me. So heads up through this section it is very possible to blow this move which will leave you very close to or on the ground even with a great belayer.

I didn't find the lower hold to be bad to clip off whatsoever, however since this is an established climb for many years now with hundreds of ascents it should probably be left as is. I don't have strong feelings either way though. May 18, 2010
WAGbag
Denver, CO
 
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
 
I'll actually vote 'no' for adding a bolt. By the time you get high enough where there is deck-potential, it's easy holds to get into the 3rd. Adding a bolt just means you'd have to clip off bad holds. An alert belayer will remove any real danger here.

Adding a sling on the 4th makes clipping easier for the crux that follows. Apr 19, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
yeah. i also think there should be another bolt above the second. the holds that look like jugs are really not. i tested the fall a couple of times before getting to the 3rd bolt, and came close to decking. the moves getting to the 3rd are really not that hard, but hard enough that its not worth the risk of decking. if i am up there again and i remember to bring my drill, i will poke one in if no one minds. sounds like the FA, Jean, (above) wouldnt mind. Oct 19, 2009
It's not strength, it's fear; no matter how many times I've done this route, I don't want to come off at the beginning. If Jean says go, fine with me, although it shouldn't be a ground fall if the belayer is paying attention, and doesn't weigh a hundred pounds less than the climber. Jul 3, 2008
Jean  
That's correct. When I put this route up, the clips made sense. If an extra bolt makes this climb safer for most people, then I have no problem with someone adding one. Eric, I think you're talking about Doug Couleur. Jun 18, 2008